Refined citrus notes, salty cordials offer depth in curated menu
The classic highball is traditionally defined by a base of whisky, gin or rum, topped with soda or tonic.
However, at Enso Izakaya & Bar in Kuala Lumpur, the focus is on a curated selection of shochu-based highballs that prioritise clean, nuanced profiles over cloying sweetness.
The menu features four distinct highballs, each designed to let vibrant citrus notes take centre stage.
The Tsukemono, for example, is a strong and punchy drink that stays spirit-forward while offering deeper layer of flavour.
Crafted with Iichiko Saiten shochu and umeboshi shisho cordial, it is balanced with citric acid and umami bitters.
The drink delivers a salty-sour punch that pairs exceptionally well with rich, grilled robatayaki dishes.
On the other hand, the Beri Highball uses Wapirits Tumugi as its foundation, paired with salted strawberry and lemon.
The salt provides a savoury counterpoint that enhances the berry’s natural brightness.
“The philosophy behind our highball selection was to take the traditionally bold, often harsh character of over-fermented rice and barley shochu and refine it for the Malaysian palate,” said Enso head mixologist Ivon Soon.
“We wanted to create something approachable and ‘easy’ to enjoy, which led to the creation of the shochu highball.”
Other highlights include the Kakka, a refreshing mix of Iichiko Saiten, white peach and soda, and the Suppai, which blends Wapirits Tumugi with green apple, yuzu and cacao bitters.
Positioned as a contemporary izakaya, Enso features a long cocktail bar and a lively open kitchen, complemented by a stylish garden terrace offering outdoor seating with views of the city skyline.
Besides highballs, the bar also serves signature cocktails inspired by Japanese elements.
The Ume no Kaze is a twist on the classic highball, blending Michter’s Rye whisky with kuromitsu (Okinawan black sugar syrup).
Dashes of hinoki and orange bitters provide layered complexity.
For those seeking a challenge, the Wasa-Mo combines Farmer’s Gin with wasabi cordial, Mancino Bianco, lime and grenadine.
While the wasabi’s earthiness is an acquired taste, it remains refreshing rather than overpowering.
Rounding out the menu is the Kaori Sour, a curious mix of Solisca Reposado, kyuri-infused Junmai Daiginjo sake and sansho bitters, delivering herbal notes with a creamy texture.
Other cocktails to try include the Sea Breeze, a mix of Suntory Haku, beer reduction, pineapple-infused seaweed and umami bitters, while the Sakura Martini blends Malfy Gin Limone, fino sherry and Mancino Sakura with sakura bitters.
ENSO IZAKAYA & BAR, Level 4, Hyatt Regency Kuala Lumpur at KL Midtown, Kuala Lumpur. (Tel: 03-3093 1234) Business hours: 5pm to midnight, Tuesday to Saturday.
This is the writer’s personal observation and is not an endorsement by StarMetro.
