Mohammad Russell’s culinary pedigree goes back over a hundred years, in a storied history that traces its roots to his great-grandfather, a fisherman who loved food and opened a restaurant in Goa, India that has stood the test of time.
The restaurant has since passed down the family line and as a consequence, as a child growing up in Goa, Mohammad was surrounded by food.
“I grew up in a family that was always involved in food, so naturally I wanted to do something in F&B,” says the perennially good-natured Mohammad, whose smile is both warm and infectious.
When he was 27, Mohammad – who had dreamed of spreading his wings – was offered a job as a restaurant manager in Malaysia. He took to the task with enthusiasm but then the Covid-19 pandemic happened and the restaurant shut down.
By then, Mohammad had met his now-fiancee Sharifah Arida Azira, 28. The two had worked together in a previous restaurant and shared a common dream of one day opening their own F&B venture.
“We always talked about starting a business but we didn’t really have a plan. When we lost our jobs, she was 26 and I was 27, so we didn’t have any savings, because we were working in a simple Indian restaurant, and weren’t making much money. But we didn’t give up – we just thought ‘Yes, we can do something’,” he says.
Mohammad began cooking authentic Indian meals out of his home in Bukit Jalil, Kuala Lumpur under the auspices of a food delivery brand he called Taste of Hindustan. He collected recipes from his family in India, did a lot of his own research and worked with another Indian chef to fine-tune his recipe arsenal.
In the first four months, he targeted foreign students in nearby universities who were only too eager to try his food. The business was cobbled together through sheer hard work and passion with Mohammad cooking all day and then rushing out to do deliveries with Sharifah (they couldn’t afford delivery riders). Often, they ended up getting soaked in the rain because they couldn’t stop to seek shelter as they had so many orders to fulfil!
“We were working 17 hours a day, but even though the work was hard, we were never focused on making money. All we were thinking from the beginning was that if someone says our food is good, that just gives us motivation to work harder,” he says.
Within four months, Mohammad realised he had to move to a bigger lot to accommodate the burgeoning demand. So he moved to a shop lot in Bukit Jalil, which is where his cloud kitchen is now based.
“Once we opened here, response has been tremendous. We didn’t have to use any money to promote the brand online, as people kept telling their family and friends about us.
“On Google now, we have one of the highest ratings for Indian restaurants in KL, even though we aren’t actually a restaurant! People can’t even imagine this is a cloud kitchen,” says Mohammad, his eyes alight with joy.
A lot of this success has to do with Mohammad’s commitment to producing authentic Indian cuisine without cutting corners or charging big bucks.
For example, all the spices used to make the meals are imported from India and Pakistan and Mohammad is particular that the masalas (spice blends) are made in-house, from the tandoori rub to the garam masala, as he says that is what makes Indian food truly authentic.
“Back in India, my grandmother used to grind and make the masala herself and many older restaurants do it the same way. So if you want the same taste, you must follow that,” he says with conviction.
To begin a meal at Taste of Hindustan, try the Tandoori Chicken (RM17.99). The chicken is marinated for 24 hours with an in-house masala blend and then grilled. The result is sublime – all the flavours of the spice blend have seeped into every single pore of the chicken and as a result, the chook is a flavour bomb from the moment you bite into it. The meat has also been cooked perfectly and is tender and juicy inside.
Addiction is a virtual guarantee with this one.
Next up, have a go at the Butter Chicken Masala (RM17.99) which has remained the brand’s highest-selling item to date. While butter chicken (essentially grilled chicken coated in a creamy tomato gravy) is a staple in most north Indian restaurants, there is often a gap between expectation and reality. Very rarely do the two align.
But this iteration of butter chicken does just that, delivering a stand-out rendition of the dish that features meat that has been grilled well but still retains an earnest succulence. The power performance in this dish is the tomato gravy, which is incredibly rich and thick with just the perfect sweet edge to round out the meal. This is hands-down one of the best versions of butter chicken in the Klang Valley right now.
Mop up all the goodness of the gravy with the brand’s soon-to-be-launched selection of naans, the highlight of which is the Cheese Chilli Garlic Naan (RM10) which is very popular in Goa. Here, you will discover soft, doughy bread with some crisp and crackle. The bread is studded with garlic, stuffed with cheese and topped with chilli in what proves to be a flavoursome triple threat that delivers heat, indulgence and comfort in one fell swoop.
The brand’s biryani selection has also proven very popular and many options are often sold out by 1pm as orders are typically overwhelming. From what’s available, definitely try the Mutton Biryani (RM23). The portion on offer is gigantic and more than enough for two people (possibly even three small eaters).
The rice has been cooked in the dum biryani style (where everything is sealed in a claypot and cooked on low heat) and as a consequence, it is fluffy and aromatic with rich spice nuances layered throughout. This is complemented by the mutton, which is sensational – a thick intoxicating coating of masala enrobes the meat, which is pliant and tenderly yielding on the palate. There’s goodness in every mouthful here so oohs and aahs of appreciation should be expected.
If you’re up for something a little greener, definitely try the Palak Paneer (RM16.99). This green queen is made up of cottage cheese floating in a moat of pureed spinach and other spices. The meal is de rigueur at most Indian establishments but Taste of Hindustan’s version is superlative. The paneer (which is sourced locally) is spongy with a soft, springy consistency. The pureed spinach meanwhile is velvety soft and forms a harmonious partnership with the cheese, lending it a delicate counterbalance without affecting its natural qualities.
Since its inception, interest in Taste of Hindustan has been so high that Mohammad says they are constantly bombarded with requests from customers to open a dine-in space.
“People are always asking us when we are going to have a restaurant. And recently, a company approached us to collaborate and open a restaurant, so we are going to be opening our own restaurant with dine-in probably at the end of June, also in Bukit Jalil,” says Mohammad happily.
Order from Taste of Hindustan through GrabFood or Food Panda.
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