“You know insect repellent won’t be much help, right?” local nature guide Abang Bohari casually remarks, as he sprays a special concoction that supposedly wards off leeches, all over my exposed legs.
“We have already informed our ‘friends’ that there will be fresh blood arriving from the big city today, ” he adds, his mischievous excitement momentarily bringing out the Kelantanese accent that he’s been trying to keep in check.
Call it a self-fulfilling prophecy, but barely 10 minutes into the start of my caving expedition, I suddenly feel an uncomfortable itch around my ankle.
True enough, a leech has sunk its sharp tiny teeth into my flesh. But parasitic worms pale in comparison next to the tough trek ahead.
As part of a media trip with Tourism Malaysia, I’m in Dabong, Kelantan, to explore the Gua Ikan cave complex.
We find ourselves climbing up ropes, side stepping over sharp stones and crouching under fallen tree branches. And we haven’t even gotten to the parts in the dark cavern where we have to watch out for low-lying cave walls!
Inside Gua Pagar itself, I find myself squeezing through tight tunnels while adjusting my eyes to the very dim surroundings. A caving excursion here definitely requires a certain amount of physical fitness and agility.
Located about 5km from Dabong town, a trip to this magnificent limestone cave complex is as off-the-beaten-path as it gets. In other words, it’s just the perfect escapade in the time of the Covid-19 pandemic when all you want to do is stay away from crowded places.
Tall weeds and muddy terrain separate the well-tarred road from the unmarked path towards the entrance of Gua Pagar.
There are no clear signs to indicate the start of the trail to the caves. Had I been travelling on my own, I probably wouldn’t have found my way here.
Getting an expert nature guide is certainly recommended as exploring the various caves would mean going through dark and unmarked paths.
Ethereal natural wonder
While Gua Pagar holds its own with fantastical rock formations, the real magic of the caving expedition happened at Gua Keris.
This natural event takes place when sunlight peeks through a crevice on top to form a ray of light that shines directly onto the floor of the cave.
There is no guarantee one can catch sight of the God Light. Good weather – and a fair amount of luck – will determine whether or not you get to see this beautiful phenomenon.
Abang Bohari makes sure to put out that disclaimer each time he leads a tour group into the caves.
Even then, the event only lasts between 45 minutes and an hour.
“The location where it happens also changes every day, depending on the sun’s position. If it’s an especially cloudy day or if it’s raining, then it’s hard to catch it, ” the jovial man adds.
Fortunately for our entourage, the day has been particularly hot and sunny. At around 11am, the God Light makes its appearance in the cave.
The phenomenon is just as heavenly as its name suggests, bringing to mind the mental image of a celestial angel descending on Earth.
That, or the spotlight that appears in the opening credits to Mr. Bean.
The God Light phenomenon aside, there are definitely many natural wonders to marvel at within the cave complex. The many formations – from underground chambers to
flow stones and cave curtains – make for absolutely magical pictures.
For nature enthusiasts, you might want to keep your eyes peeled for intriguing sightings of flora and fauna. Most of the time, many of the plant and animal life escape my untrained astigmatism-ridden eyes.
Here’s where the guide comes in to point out shy trapdoor spiders in the sand or the occasional sleeping bats above.
We couldn’t possibly visit the Gua Ikan cave complex without doing a short exploration at its namesake cave. Gua Ikan is a bit more accessible compared to its other sister caves in the area.
However, visitors should expect to get wet as you will need to cross a small stream.
Outdoors galore
Lovers of outdoor recreational activities will find much to do in this small town that’s tucked within the district of Kuala Krai. Dabong beckons with a variety of adventure-packed hidden gems.
Much of this has to do with the natural topography here which is dotted with scenic mountains, lush foliage and refreshing waterfalls.
The Gunung Stong State Park is a prime example of Dabong’s rich landscape. Within the vicinity, visitors will find several majestic peaks (Gunung Ayam, Gunung Stong and Gunung Che Tahir just to name a few) as well as the multi-tiered Jelawang Waterfall.
The latter is one of the country’s tallest waterfalls at an estimated height of 300m.
Unfortunately, our group only managed to see the mountain peaks and waterfall from afar as our bus cruised down Malaysia’s very own Route 66.
While not as famous as its American namesake, the Route 66 here has gained a reputation among local bikers for its scenic trails. The road stretches for 96km or so, connecting Jeli to Dabong, and onwards to Kampung Bukit Tebok.
After the bus ride through some spectacular scenery and natural attractions, we finally arrive at Sungai Kenerong.
At first glance, the river looks unassuming enough. The water level here is quite shallow, barely reaching my knees (I stand at about 169cm).
But my interest is piqued when the river activity operators bring out large black floats, as we get ready to give water tubing a go. What this is, essentially, is floating down the stream in the black tubes as the current propels you along the river.
The activity started out relaxing enough. But at places where the current is stronger, I find myself paddling hard to avoid bumping into low-hanging tree branches!
Sleeping by the stream
After a fun day out, some rest and relaxation is definitely a welcome notion. And if you want to stay true to the outdoor theme, then a stay at Jelawang Pipe Resort & Extreme Park won’t disappoint.
The brainchild of local youth Wan Zonnum Al Masri, the venue opened late last year before its operations were forced to halt during the movement control order (MCO) as part of measures to curb the coronavirus.
Guests have the option of swimming in the refreshing streams nearby as well as zip lining. The latter will give participants a soaring 130m rush against the scenic backdrop of Gunung Che Tahir.
The selling point here would be the chalets that are actually constructed out of concrete pipes. Sleeping inside one does evoke a sense of slight claustrophobia in me.
But if you’re up for the novelty of sleeping in a pipe as the sound of the river nearby lulls you into slumber, then by all means, go for it.
If anything, there is no shortage of novel and exciting experiences in Dabong. It’s curious that many of these attractions and places are under the radar.
Granted, some of these venues might not have the shiniest facilities and infrastructure. It’s a handicap that tourism operators in the state have learned to cope with over the years.
“Kelantan is a bit far behind compared to other states because (of political issues) for a long time, ” says travel operator Mohd Fakhrul Anuar at dinner later that night.
“But what we lack in infrastructure, I think we more that make up for it with our natural attractions and rich traditions, ” he adds.
From my short time here in Dabong, this little town in Kelantan certainly exceeds all expectations.
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