Where to travel to in Malaysia for the best coffee?


Toh Soon Cafe is located at a backlane along Campbell Street in Penang. - Filepic



When it comes to coffee, Malaysians sure indulge in our caffeine differently than people in most parts of the world. Malaysian coffee – or kopi, as it is affectionately known among locals – is often considered an acquired taste by foreigners. Coffee here is distinctly strong, robust and aromatic.

This is because the majority of the country’s coffee beans come from the Liberica coffee plant, although some places here do brew the widely consumed Arabica or Robusta variant too. The light to medium-bodied Liberica beans have bitter top-notes with a hint of floral and spice. Those with a more discerning palate might even pick up a slightly smoky taste.

The aroma of local coffee comes a careful roasting method using sugar, margarine and salt. - Filepic
The aroma of local coffee comes a careful roasting method using sugar, margarine and salt. - Filepic
Only about 2% of the global coffee production is Liberica. It’s exactly this sort of rarity that made local coffee in Malaysia so special to begin with.

And when coupled with our kopitiam (coffee shop) culture – think toast and eggs served on a marble-top table at a pre-war shophouse – the local coffee scene is certainly a unique experience.

Editor's note: Scroll down to watch video of how to order local Malaysian coffee

But just because the same coffee bean is used, that doesn’t mean all kopi in Malaysia taste the same.

In some states, the double roasting process is enhanced by adding special ingredients such as sugar, salt and margarine. This leads to specialties such as the Ipoh white coffee in Perak and Tenom coffee in Sabah.

For coffee aficionados, plan for a trip around the country to get a real taste of a variety of local coffee. If you’re more of a tea person, some famous kopitiams are also worth checking out for their food, architecture and history surrounding the area.

We’ve tracked down some special coffee as well as popular coffee shops around Malaysia. Complete your trip by visiting some famous landmarks in the area after your fresh cuppa.

If you have your own personal recommendation, do let us know at @starlifestylemy on Instagram and Twitter.

Ipoh white coffee (Perak)

Ipoh’s reputation as a foodie destination has much to do with it being the birthplace of the famous “white coffee”. That prestige was further elevated in 2018 when Lonely Planet celebrated the city’s illustrious coffee culture in the book Global Coffee Tour.

“Ipoh’s signature white coffee is famously hot, sweet and almost buttery in taste, and has spawned a chain of cafes that has found its way around Malaysia, ” the publication wrote.

Smooth and forthy, Ipoh white coffee is often served with sweetened condensed milk to give it that perfect balance of coffee and milk. - Filepic
Smooth and forthy, Ipoh white coffee is often served with sweetened condensed milk to give it that perfect balance of coffee and milk. - Filepic

It went on to name Sin Yoon, a traditional coffee shop located in Jalan Bandar Timah, for its authentic traditional recipe.

Despite its name, the coffee is actually beige in colour. The lighter colour is achieved by slowly roasting the beans only with margarine, over low temperature.

In comparison, the traditional Malaysian coffee is roasted with margarine and sugar.

Smooth and frothy, Ipoh white coffee is often served with sweetened condensed milk to give it that perfect balance of coffee and milk.

Tenom coffee (Sabah)

This specialty coffee gets its name from the town of Tenom, considered the coffee capital of Sabah. The town is located 176km south of Kota Kinabalu, and its association with coffee is steeped in colonial history.

Tenom received special attention when the British North Borneo Chartered Company established many coffee plantations in the area. A railway line connecting Melalap to Jesselton (now KK) was built in the 1890s to keep up with the demand, and transport coffee to other parts of the state.

Today, Sabahans simply refer to Tenom coffee as kopi when they place their orders at coffee shops in the state.

Tenom is considered the coffee capital of Sabah. - CEPHOTO/UWE ARANAS
Tenom is considered the coffee capital of Sabah. - CEPHOTO/UWE ARANAS

Made from Robusta beans, the coffee achieves a unique fragrant taste thanks to a traditional roasting method.

Until this day, the coffee beans are still roasted over firewood to bring out the aroma.

The three main producers today are Yit Foh Tenom Coffee, Tong Fah Coffee Factory and Fatt Choi Tenom Coffee. Tenom coffee comes in a variety of packaging and is often bought as souvenirs by visitors. You can find them in supermarkets and mini marts, but you can also get freshly roasted ones at a few morning markets and weekly tamu (farmers’ market) around the state.

Kluang Rail Coffee (Johor)

This bustling kopitiam in the quaint town of Kluang has a certain romanticism about it. Perhaps it’s the fact that the Kluang Rail Coffee – one of the oldest coffee shops in southern Malaysia – is located at a railway station.

Opened in 1938 by the Lim family, the venue is a famous stopover for visitors to Kluang. The institution now has branches all over the country, but some die-hard foodies will argue that nothing is quite the same as the original.

By far the most popular landmark in Kluang town is none other than the Kluang Railway station, located at Jalan Station which is known for its attached wooden cafeteria called Kluang Rail Coffee. - ESTHER CHANDRAN/The Star
By far the most popular landmark in Kluang town is none other than the Kluang Railway station, located at Jalan Station which is known for its attached wooden cafeteria called Kluang Rail Coffee. - ESTHER CHANDRAN/The Star

The coffee served here is grown and roasted locally. Longtime fans always return for a sip of its rich and strong flavour. Depending on your preference, you can opt to have your coffee hot, cold, plain or with milk.

The aromatic coffee is often paired with some kaya toast or a packet of newspaper-wrapped nasi lemak. The charcoal toast buns are very popular and are sold out fast. Be sure to get there early for a taste.

Kedai Kopi Hai Peng Kemaman (Terengganu)

Tucked away in the small town of Chukai, this kopitiam is probably the most famous landmark in the district of Kemaman. In fact, mention “Kopi Kemaman” to any out-of-towners and their mind would wander off to the old world coffee shop setting of Hai Peng.

People frequent Hai Peng in Kemaman to have coffee in an old world setting. - Filepic
People frequent Hai Peng in Kemaman to have coffee in an old world setting. - Filepic

Established in the 1940s, the venue is famous for its unique coffee and seri kaya. The owners have been roasting their own blend of coffee since business began.

People from various ethnic groups come together here to savour Hai Peng’s aromatic Kopi Kemaman as well as other Terengganu favourites like nasi dagang.

Those who wish to try brewing Hai Peng’s aromatic coffee grounds at home can also do so as the shop now sells them in take-home packages.

Chong Kok Kopitiam (Selangor)

Klang might be better known for its royal town status, seafood and bak kut teh, but coffee lovers will tell you they would make a trip there just for breakfast at the bustling Chong Kok Kopitiam.

Like Terengganu’s Hai Peng, there is also a spirit of muhibbah here as many Malaysians gather together for a good cup of coffee. The brew is really rich and usually sweet (you can ask for “kurang manis” or less sweet).

Apart from the beverage, Chong Kok also has a plethora of items on its food menu. Its nasi lemak is especially famous among locals before their daily commute to work.

Toh Soon Cafe (Penang)

The discreet location of this cafe – in one of Penang’s many hidden backlanes – is betrayed by the fact that there is always a long line snaking outside.

Even if you cannot spot the venue once you are at Cambell Street, you will know exactly where to go when you see the large crowd.

Toh Soon is an immensely hectic eatery, and is frequented by both locals and out-of-towners.

Toh Soon Cafe is located at a backlane along Campbell Street in Penang. - Filepic
Toh Soon Cafe is located at a backlane along Campbell Street in Penang. - Filepic

The Hainanese coffee here is noted for being aromatic and deliciously addictive. If you don’t take your coffee black, opt for the Kopi Susu which adds a generous heaping of condensed milk.

Visitors often pair their hot beverage with charcoal-grilled toast and kampung chicken eggs.

Just brace yourself for a long wait time.

Antong Coffee Mill (Perak)

Malaysian coffee, or kopi as it's affectionately known, is worth travelling for. - LOW BOON TAT/The Star
Malaysian coffee, or kopi as it's affectionately known, is worth travelling for. - LOW BOON TAT/The Star
This is not a kopitiam per se, but Antong is actually one of the oldest coffee mills in the country. If anything, it is a veritable landmark in the historical town of Taiping.

Founded in 1933, the factory still employs a traditional method of roasting coffee beans. This leads to a brew that is more aromatic, with a hint of smokiness from the charcoal. The beans are roasted using a wood-fired oven – a process which you could view with prior appointment.

As for the beans used, they are sourced from local plantations in Johor, Sabah and Sarawak. So you will still be getting that distinctive taste of Malaysian coffee.

The owners also package their coffee for on-the-spot purchase. And they often make for very good souvenirs when you’re visiting Taiping.

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