How Malaysian designers are making their name beyond the country's borders


Designers are including heritage textiles into their designs, which highlight Malaysia's diversity. Pictured here is a model walking Melinda Looi's show in Jakarta. Photo: IN2MF

With the fashion industry now a global playing field, designers are not limited to showcasing their creativity just within their home country.

From trade shows to fashion weeks, Malaysia is able to make its mark internationally.

Last year, supermodel Naomi Campbell walked the Rizman Ruzaini runway in Dubai. The dress she wore is now showcased in the Victoria and Albert Museum in London as part of an exhibition exploring her career.

This is a first for Malaysia, and definitely something to be proud of.

“To see our dress, being displayed alongside designers that we look up to when studying fashion, such as Christian Dior, Chanel, Versace, Alexander McQueen, John Galliano and Karl Lagerfield, is truly, truly the stuff that dreams are made of,” reads the statement by the designer duo behind Rizman Ruzaini, Rizman Nordin and Ruzaini Jamil.

The local fashion market is expected to continue to grow in the coming years.

According to market research website, Statista, revenue in the country’s fashion market is projected to reach US$2.04bil (approximately RM9.02bil) in 2024, and US$3.35bil (RM14.82bil) by 2029.

Ruzaini Jamil (left) and Rizman Nordin flank Campbell as they take their final walk to close the show. Photo: Instagram/Rizman Ruzaini
Ruzaini Jamil (left) and Rizman Nordin flank Campbell as they take their final walk to close the show. Photo: Instagram/Rizman Ruzaini
A report by the Ministry of Investment, Trade and Industry (MITI) stated that the overall value of Malaysia’s textile, apparel, and footwear trade stood at RM15.7bil in 2023.

“Foreigners love our fashion products,” declares Bon Zainal Harun, founder of the Malaysian Bumiputra Designer Association (MBDA).

His observation is based on feedback and support received for My Gaya Month, the annual month-long campaign organised by MBDA to support local fashion products. The most recent edition took place in October.

“Designers are helping to promote Malaysia too, not just their own apparel and accessories,” Bon points out. “We’re actually also representing the country on the world stage.”

MBDA’s patron, designer Datuk Tom Abang Saufi, says that the country is rich in terms of its arts and culture – together with fashion.

She adds that with the different ethnicities found here, Malaysia’s style offerings are beautifully varied and should be leveraged on to help draw international attention.

Read more: Malaysian fashion designers laud Unesco's official recognition of the kebaya

Malaysia’s strength

Designer Melinda Looi has always made it a point to include traditional elements into her collection for runway showcases.

Her recent presentation at the Indonesia International Modest Fashion Festival (IN2MF) in Jakarta (pictured on the cover) included designs featuring tenun, a Malay heritage textile.

“We are a multi-racial country, that is Malaysia’s strength,” she enthuses. “Our designers are unique because of this.”

Looi, who was the former president of the Malaysian Official Designers’ Association, adds that you will notice subtle hints of how local designers here embrace traditional wear.

“Batik is a very good example – and our batik differs from the ones found in other neighbouring countries of the South-East Asian region too,” she says.

Designers also make for good ambassadors, as they frequently crisscross the globe for business.

“I travel a lot. This year itself I travelled to Russia, China, Singapore and lots more for fashion events and other projects,” Looi comments.

The recent My Gaya Month campaign aims to promote Malaysian designs from local designers. Photo: MBDA
The recent My Gaya Month campaign aims to promote Malaysian designs from local designers. Photo: MBDA

Another designer, Khoon ]Hooi, has been actively organising private trunk shows to cater to his growing international clientele in the Middle East.

These are intimate events that see the clothes being presented to customers, instead of them walking into a boutique.

“We do organise trunk shows locally, but a large number is held for global clients, where we go to them,” Khoon Hooi explains. “Think of us as sales people travelling the world to promote Malaysia.”

He also participates in trade shows, one of them being Tranoi Paris, where it connects designers with other businesses and retailers.

“What I noticed is that Malaysians have always managed to stand out as our designs are incredibly varied,” Khoon Hooi says.

“Our use of bright colours is so beautiful. Also pay attention to the craftsmanship of each garment, you will notice intricate detailing and embellishments that’s representative of the country’s diversity.”

Read more: Malaysian bag designer looks to sustainability and the arts for inspiration

Well-loved by all

Malaysian fashion designs have also been spotted worn by international celebrities.

Local designers have helped draw attention to Malaysia. Pictured here is a model at Khoon Hooi's trunk show in Doha.  — Khoon Hooi
Local designers have helped draw attention to Malaysia. Pictured here is a model at Khoon Hooi's trunk show in Doha. — Khoon Hooi
Khoon Hooi’s outfits has made it to awards ceremonies such as the Golden Globes. Actress Karen Pittman opted for a navy and orange asymmetrical frock designed by him back in 2020.

Other big-name artistes like Zooey Deschanel, Fan Bing Bing, Katy Perry and Kate Walsh have also chosen his creations.

Designer Datuk Seri Bernard Chandran dressed Lady Gaga back in 2009. His designs were also worn by Estelle and Tori Amos in the past.

Bernard himself has managed to draw attention to Malaysia via his designs.

In 2018, he presented his creations to Kate Middleton, the then Duchess of Cambridge, at Buckingham Palace in London for the Commonwealth Fashion Exchange reception.

Datuk Zang Toi’s gorgeous dresses have been worn by Sharon Stone, Farrah Fawcett, Joan Collins and lots more. He also regularly participates in New York Fashion Week.

Such Malaysian designers are forever proud of being able to represent Malaysia in terms of the fashion arena too.

Toi regularly pays tribute to his home country. In 2019, he celebrated his atelier’s 30th anniversary by putting on a runway show highlighting traditional textiles such as batik, sarong and songket.

This year itself, Lady Gaga wore a bold Rizman Ruzaini design for a performance in Las Vegas.

Speaking to the local media in June, the designer duo explained that the dress reflects the rich flavour and flair of Malaysia. They also posted up a picture on social media, gushing about the occasion.

This demonstrates how Malaysian fashion has achieved international status – from catching attention on red carpets and on stage, to successfully capturing a growing international clientele.

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