With her signature black sunglasses, Datuk Tom Abang Saufi cuts a serious figure in public. Yet, behind the perceived intimidating facade is a woman who smiles readily.
“Please write that I live with colours,” the 70-year-old fashion designer quips, as she welcomes StarTrends into her Kuala Lumpur apartment for an interview and photoshoot.
It is filled it with personal curios. Unique art and pretty wallpaper adorn the walls as well, which make the place very much Instagrammable.
“I think that’s important – being able to have fun and not take life so seriously.” she says.
“I love to sing. I feel it always helps break the ice when you’re with people. I like having guests over too. It’s a Malaysian thing, or maybe the Sarawak hospitality in me.”
Kuching-born Tom is known as one of the OGs in the Malaysian fashion industry. She has had over 30 years of experience, dressing royalty and celebrities alike.
Read more: Modern and colourful, fashion in Malaysia reflects the diversity of its people
Her fashion label is loved for incorporating both contemporary and heritage elements. This is seen in her traditional-cut kaftans and baju kurung – interpreted with a Resort vibe.
“Nothing is poorer than a nation with no history and culture,” shares Tom, who has served in the past as the chairperson of Malaysia’s National Visual Arts Development Board.
Tom does not use zippers or buttons in her clothes. She says it is her “fashion DNA”.
It fits in with her design ethos, the three Cs: Comfortable, contemporary and chic.
As for Tom’s love of colours, it certainly shows. The bright and beautiful pieces of her fashion collections speak for themselves. She also produces her own prints, but adds her own spin to things to make them personal and modern.
For example, her latest range of bags feature the pua kumbu motif. She is also working on launching her own range of porcelain ware.
According to her, the fashion business is very different today. When she started out, there were no smartphones and social media. She says designers can now just create a piece, put it on Instagram or TikTok, and get orders.
But if you think that she isn’t clued in on the current trends, think again.
“Yes, I do listen to K-pop. My granddaughter is a fan, so I’m learning from her. She was given tickets to a Blackpink concert for her last birthday and she was so excited about it,” Tom reveals, laughing.
“I’ve seen the BTS performance at the Grammy Awards last year. I think we can all learn from how these stars have become a phenomenon. So, imagine if we are able to push Malaysian fashion on the global stage in that manner.”
What drives your passion as a fashion designer? What makes you get up in the morning and feel excited to be still designing?
When you love something you do, it won’t seem as just work anymore. It will always give you pleasure and satisfaction. From an early age, fashion excites me. This feeling has not paled as I got older. When I started my career, my passion for fashion took me on another level of self-discovery. I see fashion design as my vocation, if not a hobby that I will always enjoy. Looking at new textiles, or shapes and aesthetic, this is what that gives me that boost of zest every morning.
The secret to longevity is keeping track of the times. You need to do this to stay relevant. Always keep on learning. Exchange ideas and views with people of every culture – and age. Stay hungry when it comes to self-development. I still view things as if I’ve just started out as a fashion designer. I’m always excited to learn and glean new knowledge every day.
The catchphrase being thrown around in the industry at the moment is probably “cool and youthful”. What’s your view on this?
Fashion has no age limit. These days, you can even have an 80-year-old fashionista wearing youthful clothes. It’s all about the style you create for yourself. Fashion influence is no longer dictated by the hallowed ateliers of big design houses. It comes from hip-hop culture, K-pop music, art and museums. I’ve dressed mothers, as well as grandmothers and their granddaughters. I would say that ultimately, trends come and go, but it is up to the wearers to make their own statement.
As a designer, what are your thoughts on Gen Zs and the fashion they go for?
I think Gen Zs prefer gender-fluid (unisex) styles. They want clothes that have a story to tell, or come with a bigger picture. They are more conscious about sustainability, for example. I believe generation labels (Gen-Zs, millennials) do not necessarily determine style preference. I’ve met a grandfather who has got the same mental outlook as his Gen-Z grandson. They wear similar styles and brands, but they rock the outfits in different ways.
Read more: YearStarter 2023: Style - Malaysian fashion roars back as runways return
How about streetwear? Luxury brands are seen co-opting streetwear into their collections.
I’ve always been a big fan of streetwear. It was as such since my days spent living in London back in the 1970s and 80s. To me, London is the birth place of streetwear. My collections are more “museum to street”. Fashion will never evolve if it’s just to be admired in museums – especially heritage weaves and tapestries. I try to get inspiration from these artisanal work and create modern streetwear. In 1992, I created knitwear inspired by an ethnic Iban weave from Sarawak. Those pieces flew off the racks. Now in 2023, I’m getting inspired by other museum pieces and handicrafts, turning them into fashion accessories like necklaces, earrings – and yes, streetwear.
Do you see younger Malaysian designers embracing their heritage? How can one do so respectfully?
For their Raya collections, young designers are often inspired by 1950s Malay wear. Others look to traditional attires like the baju kurung, nyonya kebaya, cheongsam and saree. Batik motifs from 1960s are also getting popular. When one draws inspiration from heritage it’s always important to have knowledge. Respect is essential. I talk to artisans and learn. That’s the difference between cultural appropriation and appreciation. We have to fully respect the items we use as inspiration, and never offend the artisans or community that own this heritage.
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