GEORGE TOWN: Toh Soon Cafe, tucked away in a narrow alley off Lebuh Campbell in George Town, Penang, continues to draw throngs of tourists as a living relic of the city’s kopitiam tradition.
For many, its picturesque setting of a street cafe nestled within a heritage town backdrop is an attraction by itself.
Founded in 1950 by Toh Soon from Hainan Province, the family-run cafe has been operating for three generations and retains its enduring scene through traditional culinary methods and old-world setting.
The nostalgic atmosphere is shaped by vintage furnishings, charcoal-stove toasting and an open kitchen tucked into a modest alley.
Tables and plastic chairs for customers are squeezed into both sides of the dimly lit lane, framed by aged walls and retro signage.
That very narrowness, both intimate and chaotic, has become part of the charm, creating an Instagram-worthy backdrop for visitors seeking a slice of what they imagine as authentic Penang life.
Still, modern touches have made their way in with colourful plastic stools, younger staff stationed at the entrance and even the acceptance of e-wallet payments that reflect a subtle blend of old and new.
Mornings here are notoriously busy, especially with groups of tourists, often with cameras in hand.
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By 9am, queues comprising mostly visitors can already be seen snaking out of the alley.
Depending on how quickly existing diners finish their meals, the wait for a table can stretch to over 30 minutes.
Once seated, the patience pays off with a simple yet iconic menu rooted in Hainanese breakfast tradition.
Toasted or steamed bread comes in varieties such as Hainanese, whole wheat, coffee, chocolate, black charcoal sesame and polo bun.
Customers can choose spreads like homemade kaya, salted butter, peanut butter, or condensed milk.
These are often paired with half-boiled eggs served with soy sauce and white pepper, small packets of nasi lemak or roti kok, bread sticks baked until crispy.
The meal is completed with a strong and aromatic cup of kopi (Hainanese coffee).
Given the crowds and lean staffing, service here is brisk and no-frills.
Li Wei, 32, a tourist from Guangzhou, China, said he first heard about Toh Soon Cafe through travel blogs and social media before deciding to try it to kickstart his morning tour in Penang.
"Many people recommended this as a must-visit spot, especially for breakfast.
"I was curious because in China, we don’t really eat this kind of breakfast and it feels nostalgic here.
"The queue was long but I think that’s part of the experience of standing in a small alley with people from everywhere, all waiting for the same thing.
"When I finally sat down, the smell of charcoal toast made me forget the wait and the coffee was stronger than I expected, but good," he said.
Ayu Kartika, 27, from Jakarta, Indonesia, said she and her friends discovered Toh Soon Cafe on Instagram.
"There were so many photos of this little alley cafe and it looked unique, so I told myself I must come here.
"What we liked most was the atmosphere as it feels authentic and unlike fancy modern cafes.
"The history of this place makes the food taste even better," she said.
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