The place popularly known as Annapurna Base Camp or ABC is actually Annapurna South Base Camp. It is one of the most popular destinations for climbers and trekkers in Nepal.
There are six mountains known as Annapurna, the tallest labelled as Annapurna 1 or Annapurna Main stands at 8,091m, making it the 10th highest mountain the world.
There are at three other very popular trekking circuits in Nepal. Everest Base Camp (EBC) circuit is tougher and more demanding, and its highest point is 5,364m. It takes between 12 and 14 days of walking get there.
Mount Everest of course is the world’s tallest mountain (8,848m). The other equally challenging trek is the Manaslu Circuit with a maximum elevation of 5,213m above sea level. Manaslu is the eighth highest mountain in the world at 8,163m.
And of course there is the equally popular Langtang Valley where its final destination, the high altitude settlement of Kyanjin Gompa, stands at 3,870m.
Climbers and trekkers from the world over flock to ABC South, the more popular destination compared to ABC North.
But it was at ABC North where French climbers Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal started their bid to conquer Annapurna 1 in 1950. They summited on June 3, 1950. It was a momentous achievement as Annapurna was the first 8,000m peak that had been successfully climbed.
Herzog went on to write the best-selling book, Annapurna: The First Conquest Of An 8,000m Peak, in 1952.
Not surprisingly, the less-crowded ABC North is also known as the Maurice Herzog Trail. It is part of the Annapurna Highlands in Central Nepal that includes one peak over 8,000m, 13 peaks over 7,000m and 16 peaks over 6,000m.
The 55km-long massif stretches from the Kali Gandaki Gorge in the west, to the Marshyangdi River in the north as well as the Pokhara Valley in the south. It is one of the many scenic landscapes in Nepal, and even the world.
It believed that two-thirds of all trekkers in Nepal head for the Annapurna region each year. From the city of Pokhara, one can choose either to go to ABC North, ABC South, or go trekking on the Annapurna Ghorepani-Poon Hill. There's also the Mardi Himal trek from Duareli.
The Annapurna Sanctuary is heaven on Earth. The nine days we were on the trek from Ghandruk to ABC, stopping at Chhomrong, Upper Sinuwa, Bovan, Duareli, Machhapuchchhre Base Camp and ABC and coming down via Duareli, Himalaya and Chhhomrong exposed us to some of the most beautiful natural vistas imaginable.
The region is a biodiversity hotspot housing almost 1,400 plant species and spectacular rhododendron forest. It ranges from subtropical forest at its lower altitudes to temperate oak, pine and coniferous ones at higher altitude.
There are snow-capped peaks visible from all sides. And the narrow trails meander through rivers, deep valleys and waterfalls. It is said to be home to 128 mammal species and at least 500 bird species, though we hardly saw them.
In the lower altitude region, there are apparently 40 species of reptiles including the feared Himalayan pit viper.
Let's not forget the leeches too – at least 11 latched on to me on the first day (from Ghanruk to Chhomrong) where the trek was damp and the rain was pouring all day.
Many have asked me whether it was worth it to spend nine days trekking in such conditions. We covered at least 77km, cumulatively walking 182,149 steps. Then add to that another three days of walking down; perhaps another 170,200 steps.
My answer was always an unequivocal "Yes".
I had good company, too. The leader Mohd Moor Mat Amin, who runs an expedition company called Pendaki Solo Tours specialising in Nepal trekking and climbing; he is an incredible climber. He has summited Mount Kinabalu 200 times.
On one occasion, he went up Mount Kinabalu 50 times in 50 days, and then 111 times in 111 days.
His son, Muhammad Syahrulnizam was four when he first summited Mount Kinabalu. At 21 years old now he is a “veteran” climber. He has climbed some of the highest peaks in Malaysia and Indonesia, and trekked through challenging terrains in Nepal. He aspires to be the youngest climber from Malaysia to summit Mount Everest.
ABC has taught me and my team members about comradeship, stamina and fortitude. Above all, it has also taught us how to overcome the psychological challenges. It is not easy to walk up 5,700 steps or go down 12,000 steps. It is also not easy walking uphill for six hours each day.
I was 71 years, 10 months and 14 days when I reached ABC. The thinning air and depleting oxygen made the trek really tough for me. It was already exhausting for those who were 50 year younger than me – imagine the physical toll it had on someone my age.
But I was prepared for it. I trained almost everyday, walking at least an hour every morning, training even during rainy days.
I spent time in the gym and on the treadmill to strengthen my legs. You also have to have reasonably strong knees to start with.
Despite my preparations, and wearing a shoe that I had well broken into, I still had lacerations on almost all my toes.
Yes it is beautiful, but the ABC can also be merciless.
Johan Jaaffar is a National Journalism Laureate and an avid trekker. He has trekked in many places, most notably Indonesia, Britain, Nepal, and of course, Malaysia.
This is the third of a four-part series. You can check out the remaining articles online (Lifestyle/Travel) from Feb 16.
