The columnist having a reflective moment on the train. — PSC
I am lying at this moment on a little couch on the lower berth of a bunk bed on The Ghan train, feeling every vibration. The rhythm of the rumbling rail track reverberate in my ears, as if Earth is mumbling a message.
The world is flying past me outside the windows, a barren and uninhabited wilderness with rose-coloured charred earth. Occasionally, a kangaroo or two will hop past.
It is said that on this vast land lurks some elusive, highly poisonous snakes, but of course, I can’t spot any.
Not long before this, I enjoyed an exquisite lunch inside The Ghan’s posh dining car while having a light moment chatting with the Italian chief rail technician, Joe.
He told me this legendary 2,979km railway spans the entire width of Australia from north to south. It was completed in 1929, and the train that we are now taking is made up of 31 rail cars and is almost 1km long. It carries 158 passengers and 40 crew members, and boasts a total of six dining cars, steadily making its way at a speed of 85kmph towards the depth of history and wilderness.
Wow. I never knew The Ghan has had such a long history.
Powered by an electro-diesel hybrid system, services on The Ghan are suspended every year from November through January the following year, due to the monsoon season.
Joe told me proudly that the train’s name was a tribute to the courageous Afghan camel riders traversing the Australian interiors in late 19th century. With their camels, these folks helped pioneer the vast unknown terrain and transport necessities. They played a pivotal role in establishing transportation routes during the early years.
Kii and his daughter G standing next to a monument of an Afghan camel rider at Alice Springs.
This part of history was immortalised with the naming of the train, making The Ghan a household name across Australia.
Tickets are hard to come by especially during the peak winter season between May and July – you would need to book at least nine months in advance.
The 12 travel buddies and I were extremely lucky to score tickets this year, riding the legendary train from Darwin to Adelaide during Australia’s late summer.
Nine meals were arranged throughout the journey, three of which were special dinners that took place outside the train.
We also had an unforgettable alfresco dinner under the starry sky, next to an old telegraph station.
To be honest, the most charming part of the journey is not the fancy dinners or the melodious songs of the Indigenous folks reverberating in the canyon. This train ride is a way for Australia to show its true self to her visitors, rather than as a way for us to see Australia.
Staring into the constantly changing landscapes outside, it made me wonder about my life and how things have impacted me. The world keeps revolving around me, but have I truly accepted the changes taking place within me?
The columnist (far left) with his travelmates before kicking off their railway adventure on The Ghan in Darwin. — Photos: LEESAN
The biggest difference between a train ride and a cruise voyage lies not with the degree of luxury, but the stories that flip past beyond the windows.
Australia is an enormous and mysterious land mass, whose soul does not dwell in the glass towers of its coastal cities, but rather the boundless red earth that keeps moving out of focus deep into the interiors.
Here, it is so quiet you can almost hear the wind breathing.
It’s no wonder that almost every Australian feel like they must make an effort to go on The Ghan at least once before they pass on.
On Aug 4, 1929, The Ghan made its inaugural service from the Adelaide train station, Joe shared. The place was packed with well-wishers.
That was the first time a train traversed the entire length of the almost 3,000km north-south railway; it arrived safely in Darwin in the far north two days later.
Ninety years later in 2019, Arabana And The Ghan was officially compiled and published, narrating the epic stories about the camel travellers, the courageous pioneers, and the big dreamers.
Established in 1929, The Ghan is Australia’s iconic passenger train and runs between Darwin and Adelaide. — The Ghan
The Ghan is not just another journey; it is like a training for one’s temperament, as he is transported from the fringes of a bustling metropolis to the Earth’s centre of nothingness.
You can almost say that this is a journey where “adventure” dances with “opulence”. In the infinite expanse of barren wilderness, go on a dream ride exclusive to Australia while sipping some sparkling champagne.
The views expressed here are entirely the writer’s own.
Leesan, the globe-trotting traveller who has visited seven continents and 149 countries, enjoys sharing his travel stories and insights. He has also authored six books.
