What's in Perlis? Malaysia’s 'Great Wall in the North' and more!


Photos By PETER ONG
A scenic view of the paddy fields and mountains in Wang Kelian. – Photos: PETER ONG

The Nakawan range was made to arrest attention: sheer, nearly vertical hills rise from the flat plains to span 36km from the border of Thailand to the Andaman Sea.

This limestone beauty is Malaysia’s “Great Wall in the North”, separating Malaysia from Thailand.

Its chalky white cliff faces peek out from under cover of the semi-deciduous forest that adorns this charismatic range.

Many species of fig trees and meranti reach for the sky on these dry and rocky surfaces whose leaves turn red and yellow and shed once a year – a tropical autumnal season.

This is also a remarkable place geographically.

It is the country’s oldest and longest limestone range, a meeting point between the Indochine and the Nusantara, where the more arid landscapes in the north meet the humid south.

This distinctive location gives rise to an extended and more intense dry season, allowing many unique species to thrive.

Sunrise at the Nakawan Range, which is the oldest and longest continuous limestone hill in Malaysia.
Sunrise at the Nakawan Range, which is the oldest and longest continuous limestone hill in Malaysia.

The terrain in Perlis, especially that of Wang Kelian, is unique in Malaysia.

Paddy fields are pressed up against the 370 million-year-old limestone hills, creating dramatic sceneries. These karsts and hills also house many caves and crevices, some of which remain unexplored.

Bukit Rongkit on the edge of Wang Kelian has a deep crater – or “wang” in Thai – that is only visible and accessible from the peak. The mysteries that lie within remain uncovered.

These caves are also an important source of fresh water, with rivers emerging from them to feed the rice plains of Perlis. Some of these caves are easily accessible by the public, such as the old mining cave of Gua Kelam.

A view of Wang Kelian’s natural splendour from Bukit Rongkit.
A view of Wang Kelian’s natural splendour from Bukit Rongkit.

Apart from learning about the mining history of the nearby village of Kaki Bukit, there is also the chance to discover some of the amazing wildlife that thrives in the complete darkness of these cave systems, such as the Asian Leaf Turtle, which is usually found above ground and on higher elevations.

Indeed, Wang Kelian and the surrounding forests of the Perlis State Park are such remarkable destinations to come and experience the wealth of flora and fauna that Malaysia is one of only 17 countries on the planet to have the status of a “mega-biodiverse nation”.

From the peaks of the limestone ridges to the depths of the caves, life is teeming everywhere and some are incredibly easy to spot.

The stump-tailed macaque, one of the attractions at the Perlis State Park.
The stump-tailed macaque, one of the attractions at the Perlis State Park.

One of the main attractions of the area is the stump-tailed macaque (Macaca arctoides), a primate species that is usually found further north in the Asian continent up to the foothills of the Himalayas.

However, one population thrives in the valley of Wang Kelian.

The spectacular winged fruits twirl through the air as it falls onto the jungle floor.
The spectacular winged fruits twirl through the air as it falls onto the jungle floor.
This population does not cross the border to Thailand or descend further south to the rest of the peninsula. They remain uniquely Perlis-ian.

Locally referred to as beruk kentoi, these primates are known for their distinctive appearance, striking red facial markings, and stocky physique.

They move around mainly on the forest floor as they lack tails for balancing in trees and only climb trees to forage for young shoots, leaves and fruit.

They are not the only primate species that can be found in this spectacular limestone range.

The Perlis State Park, which wraps around the village of Wang Kelian, is home to seven species of primates, a remarkable count for this area of 5,000ha.

The light morph of the charismatic and endangered white-handed gibbon (Hylobates lar) or ungka tangan putih is easily heard and sighted in the area.

Only found in South-East Asia, these primates are known for their distinctive calls, often heard echoing through these forests.

They are highly acrobatic and often seen swinging through the trees. The Nakawan range is one of the most accessible places in Malaysia to see these beautiful apes in the wild.

Lar Gibbon is hanging on the tree and can be easily heard and sighted.
Lar Gibbon is hanging on the tree and can be easily heard and sighted.

Birds are in abundance at the Perlis State Park and in Wang Kelian.

The combination of limestone forests and village orchards provides a truly unique habitat for them to thrive.

White-Crested Hornbill is known for their striking appearance, with a white crest on their head that resembles a horn, and black feathers covering its body, tail, and wings.
White-Crested Hornbill is known for their striking appearance, with a white crest on their head that resembles a horn, and black feathers covering its body, tail, and wings.
One unique avian species that can be seen is the elusive white-crowned hornbill (Berenicornis comatus).

These birds are easily recognised by their distinctive white feathered crests and long, curved bill, mostly yellow with a black tip.

Another bird species found easily in the many orchards around here is the hanging blue-crowned parrot (Loriculus galgullus).

A beautiful bird to sight in the wild, it can be found perching off the tree, barking, and having a go at the fruit.

The shorea trees or pokok keruing that grow tall on these slopes produce spectacular winged fruits which get borne by the wind and twirl through the air as they descend to the jungle floor.

They are a sight to behold during the masting season when the forest air is filled with these flying winged fruits.

Wang Kelian and the Perlis State Park are among the nation’s hidden treasures.

There are hilltops to climb, vertical cliff faces to scale, caves to dive in to, abundant trails to hike, and of course, so much wildlife to spot. And that’s just on land.

The coast of Perlis is also one of the few places in Malaysia to spot dolphins and even whale sharks.

Blue-Crowned Hanging Parrot found at the state park.
Blue-Crowned Hanging Parrot found at the state park.
There is something for every nature lover here in this state.

A new set of players take to the forests when the sun goes down.

Apart from the insects and the owls, another remarkable primate species comes out to play – the endangered and timid sunda slow loris.

Unique to South-East Asia, this nocturnal primate is also one of those rare venomous mammals.

With all this biodiversity combined with the ease of navigability, it is no wonder that Perlis remains the ultimate hidden treasure for outdoor adventure.

So, what’s in Perlis? You’ll have to make the trip to discover it for yourself.

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Perlis , Outdoor , StarExtra

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