A collection which approaches jewellery as an integral part of the watch’s construction, Richard Mille's HJ-02 In-House Automatic Tourbillon is a modern approach to gem-setting.
Made up of 12 unique timepieces divided into four colour families, this new in-house automatic tourbillon calibre in white gold marks the second chapter in the brand's high jewellery saga.
Conceived as an immersive world of colour, light and form, the collection celebrates 20 years of design for women through a dreamlike dazzling language.
Organised into four chromatic universes – pink, violet, blue and green – captivating stones shape the unique character of each timepiece.
From the case and buckle to the movement itself, gem-setting informs every surface of the RM HJ-02.
Symbolising a new chapter in Richard Mille’s exploration of high jewellery into more experimental territory, the watch's construction challenges its in-house gem-setting team even further.
The geometry of stones determines how colour and light move across the watch: volumes swell and contract, symmetry gives way to asymmetry, and coloured stones shift across the case through compositions of opacity, saturation and reflection.
Snow, grain and bezel-setting techniques organise colour and define structure across 1,399 precious and ornamental stones set in each timepiece.
Giving the collection its kaleidoscopic intensity are rubies, sapphires, diamonds, emeralds and Paraíba tourmalines, which interact with malachite, chrysoprase, turquoise and mother-of-pearl, alongside a constellation of other vibrant precious and ornamental stones.
Volumes are carved and layered, with the complex geometries of stones in various sizes and shades creating a vibrant visual rhythm.
When every stage related to the gem-setting process is taken into consideration, from preparation to finishing and multiple control procedures, nearly 700 hours are devoted to each watch, the equivalent of approximately 88 full working days.
The collection draws from Art Deco’s geometric vocabulary, reinterpreted through Richard Mille’s technical and material language.
The tonneau case, broken into sharp transitions with layered planes and asymmetrical interruptions, took more than a year to develop, contributing to a total development time of over three years for the entire watch.
At its heart is the new in-house automatic tourbillon calibre CRMT2, a skeletonised movement developed alongside the case and dial so that the mechanical and jewellery elements could be integrated from the outset.
The RM HJ-02 stands out for this close interplay between mechanics and high jewellery.
Precious and ornamental stones structure the lines of the movement, ensuring visual continuity with its silhouette, a composition which highlights the key elements of the calibre, notably the fast-rotating barrel as well as the variable-inertia tourbillon.
The gem-set gold rotor elevates its technical function into a true element of expression.
On the RM HJ-02, decorative work never obscures the function of the watch. Instead, it is an extension of the watch’s overall aesthetic.
The 12 unique RM HJ-02 In-House Automatic Tourbillon timepieces depict artistic freedom in its highest form: a collection where colour and technical gem-setting expertise merge to create one of-a-kind pieces.
Gem-setting ingenuity
Calibre CRMT2
Skeletonised automatic winding tourbillon movement with hours and minutes.
Movement dimensions
23.70 x 30.70mm
Thickness
6.20mm
Jewels
23
Balance
CuBe, 4 arms, 4 setting weights, moment of inertia 7.5 mg•cm2, angle of lift 50°
Frequency
28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Balance spring
AK3
Shock protection
Incabloc908.22.211.100 (transparent)
Escapement wheel jewels
Rubifix (transparent)
Power reserve
Around 50 hours (10%).
Baseplate and bridges in gem-set white gold
The baseplate and bridges are machined from 18K white gold, both microblasted and bevelled by hand. The skeletonised baseplate and bridges were subjected to intensive and complete validation tests to optimise their resistance capacities.
Free-spring balance with variable inertia
This type of balance wheel represents the ultimate in innovation. It guarantees greater reliability when subjected to shocks
and during movement assembly or disassembly, hence better chronometric results over time. The regulator index is eliminated, and a more accurate and repeatable calibration is possible thanks to 4 small, adjustable weights located directly on the balance.
Gem-set rotor
Made of gem-set gold, it features a One-Way reverser system mounted on ceramic ball bearings to optimally wind the barrel.
Fast-rotating barrel
(5 hours per revolution instead of 7.5 hours)
This type of barrel provides the following advantages:
• The phenomenon of periodic internal mainspring adhesion is significantly diminished, thereby increasing performance.
• Provision of an excellent mainspring delta curve with an ideal power reserve/performance and regularity ratio.
Gear teeth profile
The entire going train of the watch, the primary transmitter of power throughout the movement, utilises a special profile for the teeth of the wheels, ensuring a 20° pressure angle. This system equalises any discrepancies that might arise among the centres of the wheels, for instance due to thermal changes and normal use, and promotes the smooth transmission of torque to the balance wheel, thus supporting excellent chrono¬metric results.
Spline screws in Grade 5 titanium for the bridges and case
This permits better control of the torque applied to screws during assembly. These screws are unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well
Movement
• Hand-polished anglage
• Hand-polished stepped bevelling
• Microblasted milled section
• Microblasted sinks
• PVD treatment for the bridges
• Electroplasma treatment for the baseplate
Steel parts
• Satin-finished surfaces
• Hand-polished anglage
• Hand-polished sinks
• Burnished sections
Profile-turning
• Lapped and polished ends
• Burnished pivots
• Post faces polished
Wheels
• Diamond-polished sinks
• Circular decorations on the front surfaces
• Rhodium plating (before cutting the teeth)
• Minimal corrections applied to the wheels in order to preserve geometry and performance
Case
The design and execution of the watch demonstrate a holistic approach to conception of the movement, case and dial.
As a result, everything has been constructed according to extremely rigorous specifications.
The case showcases a multitude of gem-setting techniques, from baguette and pave settings to stones meticulously inlaid or assembled like marquetry.
This exceptional high jewellery craftsmanship required hundreds of hours of meticulous work, making each piece truly unique. The finest precious and ornamental stones adorn the bezel, caseband and crown, creating a result that stands as a singular achievement in watchmaking.
The tripartite case is water resistant to 50 metres, ensured by 2 Nitrile O-ring seals.
The case is assembled with 20 spline screws in grade 5 titanium and abrasion-resistant washers in 316L stainless steel.
Flanges
In white gold PD150 and sandblasted and polished titanium.
Crystal
Bezel side
• In sapphire (1,800 Vickers) with anti-glare treatment (both sides).
• Thickness: 1.30mm.
Caseback
• In sapphire with anti-glare treatment (both sides).
• Thickness: 0.95mm and 1.74mm at the edges.
Limited edition of 12 unique pieces.
For two decades, the brand has been designing for women, its latest collection showcasing a modern approach to gem-setting. Photos: Richard Mille
Gem-setting informs every surface of the RM HJ-02, from the case and buckle to the movement itself.
The collection is made up of 12 unique timepieces divided into four colour families.
RM HJ-02 is a limited edition of 12 unique pieces.
RM HJ-02 Blue Ballet
RM HJ-02 Green Gambit
RM HJ-02 Pink Pursuit
An exceptional level of craftsmanship was required for the hundreds of hours of meticulous work that went into its creation.
RM HJ-02 Violet Variations
Calibre CRMT2, a skeletonised automatic winding tourbillon movement movement developed alongside the case and dial.
