Photo composite (from left): Louis Vuitton, Kenzo, Dior
Runways have returned in full swing. Along with this comes the vibrant and energetic Autumn/Winter 2022 menswear.
Lockdown dressing is a mere memory and trendy clothes are back in fashion – louder, bolder and with more attitude, than ever before.
From streetwear to classic tailoring, men’s fashion celebrates a zest for life.
Party clothes, going-out essentials and workwear are the focus of designers once again.
With collaborations rife in the industry, the offerings for the season signal at a thriving style scene. Even the fashion calendar is back and all notions of seasonless collections forgotten.
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Occasionwear – outfits that are worn on special events, being overtly glamorous and glitzy – are also back.
“I wanted to celebrate the classic wardrobe with which you are dressing for occasions – these are very few now so, they should be celebrated even more than before,” Silvia Venturini Fendi, creative director of menswear at Fendi, told Vogue.
Overalls are now in fashion. Photo: PradaSuits, predicted to go extinct, have made a comeback too.
“This collection is a return to a certain discipline and tradition, yet there is always a simultaneous sense of British subversion within what we do and in the person who might wear it,” read the statement by Mark Weston, creative director of Alfred Dunhill.
While menswear fashion weeks like the one in New York was scaled back, the designers themselves are not giving up on the market.
Indeed, the industry is slowly but surely picking itself up to strut in style.
Young and cool
Streetwear is still going strong for Autumn/Winter 2022. It is not so much about sweatpants and slouchy sweaters though.
Overalls for example, have been seen in numerous runway shows.
Made from different materials like garbadine or nylon, these easy-to-wear staples are considered as at the forefront of menswear fashion for the season.
Kenzo, Prada and Dolce & Gabbana have all included overalls into their collections.
Sweaters are on trend too. They exist as a dressed-up variety, with embellishments of voluminous architectural knits, knitted chain links and floral appliques.
Don’t think of sweaters as the dowdy piece of clothing that old people wear anymore. They are the ones you will be seeing more of at fashionable parties.
Working it
In terms of formal clothing, designers are pushing the boundaries as well.
Double-breasted jackets have been celebrated by several labels, from Hermes and Dior to Vetements.
If not rigidly structured, they take on a more casual silhouette. There is even an origami-style blazer. Just perfect for both work and play.
The more utilitarian safari jacket is trending this season.
Louis Vuitton showed them off, styled in a chic manner: belted and elegantly synched at the waist. Prada’s safari jacket was made to be oversize with a bold print.
This further gave the clothing item an extra dash of rakkish attitude. It is not something you would wear in the wild, well maybe just the urban jungle.
Monochrome madness
There were also plenty of one-colour looks in the Autumn/Winter 2022 shows.
While vivid and bright monochromatic outfits are not unusual, all-black getups seem to be a thing too.
This is certainly interesting, as it goes against the very message that the industry is trying to send out – that is a celebration of life returning to normal, with everyone happy and optimistic.
Versace and Etro for instance, included several black-on-black looks for the runway shows.
Yet, on the other end of the spectrum, you have an explosion of looks comprising only one colour.
Leather with power shoulders, a throwback from the 1980s. Photo: Dolce & GabbanaAn all-pink suit even took pride in the Dolce & Gabbana show.
Perhaps this is part of the Barbie trend that fashion is obsessed with currently. A live-action film of the iconic doll is scheduled to be released this year.
Going old-school
Fashion often borrows from past trends. This season, baggy jeans of the 1990s era make a return.
GQ calls them “grunger jeans”, which appeared in the collections from Balenciaga and Louis Vuitton. If you have your doubts, singer-songwriter Justin Bieber has been seen rocking the trend.
Fashion designer Nigo, who was appointed by Kenzo as its artistic director, is regarded as a denim expert. Naturally, his Kenzo collection featured lots of baggy denim pieces.
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Another retro trend seen on the Autumn/Winter 2022 runways is the power shoulder.
Back in the 80s, this is very much a womenswear thing. Somehow, it has been absorbed by menswear. Jil Sander, Vetements, Rick Owens and more showed prominent jackets with extra broad shoulder paddings.
Big and bold, the power shoulder never gets old!
Leather, rinse, repeat
In terms of fabrics or materials, leather emerged as a star. Not just as bomber jackets, even leather pants can be a thing.
Leather pieces are not worn as separates too. Be prepared to suit up with a leather jacket and pants, or even a three-piece leather ensemble.
To go with all that leather are shearling or faux fur trims. This replicates a 90s vibe – perhaps to go with the baggy jeans trends.
Travel further back in time and you will even arrive in the 60s. Animal prints are featured prominently this season.
There is the pop-infused leopard sweaters from Versace, for instance. Dolce & Gabbana offered an enormous faux leopard fur coat, while Dior showed a leopard print beret and car coat combo.
