London Fashion Week launched on Thursday (Feb 19) with a rare visit from King Charles III only hours after his brother Andrew's sensational arrest, overshadowing an event traditionally focused on highlighting new talent.
The king surprised crowds when his car pulled up outside a show by British-Nigerian designer Tolu Coker – on a day when headlines were dominated by the former prince Andrew's arrest on suspicion of misconduct in public office for his dealings with late US sex offender Jeffrey Epstein.
The king was met by a question about Andrew from the crowd, which he appeared not to hear.
After shaking hands and greeting industry leaders and designers, Charles took a front-row seat between British Fashion Council chief executive officer Laura Weir and top UK designer Stella McCartney.
It was one of several public duties the king carried out on Thursday (Feb 19), apparently seeking to project an air of business-as-usual.
The monarch, dressed suavely in a grey suit with turned-up hems, presented McCartney with a scarf after touring stands of clothes showcasing various designers.
One of the designers showing in the coming days is 27-year-old Joshua Ewusie, a breakout British creator born to Ghanaian parents who is due to put on his second show with his brand EWUsie.
The young designer has been supported by the King's Foundation, a charity founded by Charles, helping to provide a studio space shortly after he graduated from the prestigious Central Saint Martins school. One of the foundation's partners is Chanel.
Read more: Suits and signet rings: King Charles' fashion through the ages
Royal flavour
London Fashion Week is better known for nurturing new talent than big-name shows, and Ewusie epitomises the event's ability to give a platform to rising stars.
His hometown London, which boasts several fashion schools, provides "great support for young designers", Ewusie said, ahead of his London Fashion Week presentation on Sunday (Feb 22).
"There are so many opportunities, I think, that London gives to help young brands start," he added.
Coker, whose show the king attended, launched her brand in 2018.
Her catwalk, which featured elegant, mainly unisex designs inspired by diverse identities, highlighted "craftsmanship, sustainability and the creative industries", fashion week organisers said in a statement.
The king's presence, they added, reinforced "British fashion's place on the world stage".
Not far away, at the Waldorf Hotel a tribute was held to one of fashion week's stalwarts, Paul Costelloe, who died in November aged 80.
The Irish-American's romantic, sartorial runways were a regular fixture on the opening day of London Fashion Week since the inception of the show in 1984.
His son William Costelloe is now the creative director of the brand, which wrote on social media ahead of its London Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2026 opening show: "A new season. A powerful moment. A legacy moving forward."
Other notable names including Harris Reed and Richard Quinn are returning to the runway in London, with Burberry closing the week in its usual fashion on Monday evening (Feb 23).
Other labels will bring a royal flavour to the runway, with brands worn by Princess Catherine including Emilia Wickstead, Edeline Lee and Erdem putting on shows.
Read more: Regal fashion: Looking back at who wore what for King Charles' coronation
Fashion incubator
However, there will be no show from the breakout Northern Irish designer Jonathan Anderson, who was one of the most eagerly awaited at London Fashion Week in recent seasons.
The 41-year-old took over at Dior last June, leaving little time for his own brand, JW Anderson, which he founded in 2008.
For several years, London has been losing ground to rivals in Paris and Milan, but it has clung onto its role as a breeding ground for young talent.
The British Fashion Council's NewGen initiative provides funding for emerging talent, with several up-and-coming designers finding their stride at LFW through the incubator. – AFP
