Delicious Spanish fare with a Nikkei edge at KL's sophisticated Mesa


Mesa boasts one of the most panoramic views in central KL. — Photos: Mesa

Perched sky-high on the 51st floor of Kuala Lumpur’s Permata Sapura Tower is Mesa On 51. The space is a dizzying, dazzling odyssey through an assortment of epicurean pursuits – combining a Spanish restaurant, a Nikkei lounge and an outdoor terrace all in one location.

The premium experience is the brainchild of Modesto Marini, the founder of The Marini’s Group – which also owns and operates restaurants like Marini’s On 57 and Marble 8 Steakhouse. A veteran in the F&B industry, Marini opened Mesa in 2024 after sensing that modern diners were looking for something less static, creating a gap in the market that he was confident he could fill.

“Opening a new restaurant is never a casual decision for us. It begins with identifying a meaningful gap in the market – something that adds depth to the city’s dining scene rather than simply following a trend. We look carefully at timing, relevance and whether the concept has long-term substance.

Mesa is the brainchild of Marini, who felt that there was a gap in the market for a space that offered variety without too much formality.
Mesa is the brainchild of Marini, who felt that there was a gap in the market for a space that offered variety without too much formality.

“Location is equally crucial. It must elevate the experience and feel purposeful. Mesa On 51 came from a desire to create something more fluid but also luxurious in experience – a place that moves naturally from early evening through to late night.

“Dining habits have changed, and people want variety without too much formality, yet with premium service. The space also came at a right time to us. The view and skyline itself are the luxury.

“And I knew I could complement it with my culinary and hospitality experience,” says Marini.

Perhaps Mesa’s biggest selling point is the view that comes with the space. Sitting in the Spanish restaurant allows unobliterated views of the PETRONAS Twin Towers, a rarity in the city’s densely packed conurbation. If you happen to be here around 7pm, expect to see one of the most breathtaking sunsets around, where the burnished sun melts in the horizon, buttering the sky with a hazy golden glow that engenders a potent reminder of how wonderful it is to be alive.

Having filled your eyes, it is now time to fill your stomachs. The menu features a rich array of Spanish dishes as well as Nikkei meals (Japanese-Peruvian food) crafted by seasoned chef Alberto Sancassani, a former architect turned culinary maven.

The gambas ajillo features prawns saturated in extra virgin olive oil and garlic in what proves to be an addictive combination.
The gambas ajillo features prawns saturated in extra virgin olive oil and garlic in what proves to be an addictive combination.

“Mesa also is not just your average restaurant; it is an experience. While I don’t believe in fusion, we opted to have a full-blooded authentic Spanish restaurant complemented with a Nikkei menu,” says Marini.

To begin your culinary odyssey here, dive through Japanese waters with the A5 Miyazaki Wagyu Sirloin Nigiri (RM80 for 2 slices). Here, a thin, velvety blanket of wagyu is mounted over Japanese vinegared rice. The result is honestly sensational – the wagyu is slippery and silken with undulating bovine undertones and the smooth operator glides down the throat with minimal mastication.

Head towards Peruvian Nikkei shores with the Ceviche Amazzoniko (RM68) which features a mango leche de tigre, red snapper, scallop, onions, cancha corn and cassava chips. This is honestly one of the best things to come out of Mesa – a riotously fun, feisty livewire that features plump bites of scallop and red snapper coated in a fruity, astringent sauce that also has a thin, yet potent hit of fire running through its veins.

The supple, bouncy char-grilled Spanish octopus steals the show in this seafood offering. — ABIRAMI DURAI/The Star
The supple, bouncy char-grilled Spanish octopus steals the show in this seafood offering. — ABIRAMI DURAI/The Star

Journey through more familiar Spanish fare in the form of the classic Gambas Ajillo (RM68). Here, tiger prawns are drenched in extra virgin olive oil, garlic cream, crispy garlic chips and parsley, with house-made bread served on the side.

The highlight here is the garlicky unctuousness that has saturated every fibre and molecule of the prawns, giving it a fabulously rich, powerfully addictive sheen. The rest of this meal encompasses mopping up every last bit of this garlicky goodness and gathering it into the bowels of the fluffy bread.

Swim underwater yet again with the Pulpo Canario (RM128) which juxtaposes grilled Spanish octopus with potato picon espuma and mojo verde (Spanish herb sauce).

The undisputed heavyweight of this offering is the octopus which has a lightly charred, blistered surface that succumbs to flesh that is limber and supple, accruing dexterity in its configuration and avoiding that dreaded rubberiness so frequently associated with this cephalopod.

The squid ink paella is an aquatic-centric treat that is accentuated by a rich assortment of fresh seafood. — ABIRAMI DURAI/The Star
The squid ink paella is an aquatic-centric treat that is accentuated by a rich assortment of fresh seafood. — ABIRAMI DURAI/The Star

The potato foam meanwhile adds a thick, spud-laden counterpoint to the dish that gives it much-needed heft and weight.

If you’re after another Spanish classic, look to the wonders of the Paella Negra (RM188) which features Spanish bomba rice infused with squid ink and rounded out by a cast of aquatic characters in the ilk of cuttlefish, squid and tiger prawns.

The key to a flavoursome Spanish paella is the socarrat (crispy crust) that typically laces the bottom of the pan, giving it a nutty overlay that adds depth and dimension to the dish. Here, vigorous stirring reveals a generous coating of socarrat that is also infused with the rich sea-faring flavours of the squid ink dispersed throughout the rice. Overall, this is a robustly-flavoured dish that radiates with oceanic virtues.

From the main course options, definitely look at indulging in the Miso Cod Fish (RM168). Miso cod became a global phenomenon when it was elevated by Nobu Matsuhisa, the famed chef behind the Nobu, a chain of upscale Japanese restaurants.

In this interpretation, the miso cod is outstanding – the miso has adhered itself to the fish, which retains a caramelised sweetness that melds fluidly with the generous, flaky attributes of the cod.

The miso cod fish at Mesa has been done to absolute perfection, retaining a sweet caramel-esque undertone and flaky flesh.
The miso cod fish at Mesa has been done to absolute perfection, retaining a sweet caramel-esque undertone and flaky flesh.

End the savoury part of your meal on an euphoric high note with a dish from the restaurant’s charcoal oven in the form of the Wagyu Flat Iron Steak (RM388 for 300g).

The grilled flat iron steak (marbling score 7) is paired with a smoked eggplant puree, cherry tomato confit, chimichurri and black pepper jus in what proves to be an all-star cast.

The steak is the natural beauty of this lot, proving that God-given attributes require little in the way of modification or touch-ups. The meat has been grilled to perfection, retaining a smoky char on the surface that yields to succulent, juicy slices of beef that are incredibly tender to the touch. The chimichurri sauce adds a piquant, herbaceous contrast to the meal while the black pepper jus offers a hearty, power-packed jolt to the senses.

Tender and incredibly succulent, the wagyu flat iron steak is hugely satisfying from start to finish.
Tender and incredibly succulent, the wagyu flat iron steak is hugely satisfying from start to finish.

End your meal with a sweet treat in the form of the Postre Churros (RM38) or Spanish churros with chocolate, vanilla cream and mixed berries. The churros are very good – crisp and sugary on the outside and fluffy and doughy on the inside. This pairs beautifully with the thick chocolate sauce and offers a lovely, memorable finish to the meal.

Ultimately a meal at Mesa offers something a little off-the-beaten-track, encompassing panoramic views, delicious Spanish, Peruvian and Japanese food as well as the opportunity to extend the night and experience a whole different vibe at the lounge and terrace areas, which bloom with activity as the night progresses.

Mesa On 51

Level 51, Permata Sapura Tower

91, Jalan Pinang

50088 Kuala Lumpur

Tel: 03-2386 6030

Open Wednesday to Saturday: 5pm to 3am; Sunday to Tuesday: 6pm to 2am

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