Halal, innovative and local touch to European cuisine

(From left) Freshly made pasta is not to be missed at Brix in Kuala Lumpur; the Organic Roast Chicken with potato puree and chicken jus; and Beef Short Ribs with green apple. — Photos: CHAN TAK KONG/The Star

SOURCING home-grown products is not just a trend at Brix in Kuala Lumpur but also a deeply ingrained philosophy that sets this restaurant apart from its competitors.

Specialising in modern European food, the creations of chef Rexxa Iskandar and his team rival those of any fine-dining establishment, using locally sourced beef, shrimp from Hulu Selangor, organic chicken from Nilai and even freshwater lobster from Hulu Langat.

“Our aim is to provide a casual dining experience but with all the elements of a fine-dining establishment that is in line with our core values to be halal, innovative and local,” said Rexxa, who is also the founder and owner of Brix.

A main challenge Rexxa faces by opting for locally sourced produce is consistency and quality of the ingredients.

“It is like a mountain but it can be scaled.

“It is not easy, but I am willing to take on this challenge in the hopes of achieving ‘close to being 100% locally sourced’ one day,” he said, adding that he reckoned he was now hovering at the 70% mark.

Rexxa has several tricks up his sleeve which he uses in replacement of traditional European cooking methods.

“Every ingredient can be replaced or substituted with something else, it is just a matter of finding the right combination of ingredients.

“I look at the last two decades of my career as part of the research and development process, and now is the chance to use what I have learned.”

The Fresh Pappardelle with beef cheek and parmesan (RM50), for example, would usually call for wine, but is substituted with grape and orange juice.

The beef is melt-on-the-tongue tender as it is slow-cooked for 48 hours before being charred and cooked in a tomato sauce with the fruit juices.

The pasta, made in-house using imported Italian flour, is thin but still al dente and perfect with the bits of meat and oven-baked parmesan cheese.

A starter of eggplant (RM35) may not seem like much but it packs a punch.

In this Japanese-inspired dish, the eggplant is glazed with soy sauce instead of the typical miso. A caramelised onion sauce helps to lift the flavours of the eggplant.

Another must-try is the Salt and Pepper Squid (RM40), which was crunchy with a tempura batter but soft with the right ratio of chewiness on the inside.

Rexxa explained that the squid is soaked in milk for 24 hours to get rid of any sea smell and to get its signature bouncy texture.

Instead of a lemon wedge, the dish is served with a lemon puree as well as a coriander aioli, which works well with the slightly spicy coating.

Chicken may not be a first option when prime cuts of beef are part of the menu, but the Organic Roast Chicken (RM50) here is not to be missed.

The chicken, which is sourced from Nilai, undergoes a multi-layer cooking process, including brining for 24 hours.

It is baked at three different temperatures, glazed with vanilla and honey butter.

It is served with a reduction of half chicken and half duck jus. This creates a creamy and silky sauce that complements the chicken without being overpowering.

It is well known that local beef is tougher than its Australian counterpart, perfect in slow cooking methods like rendang.

Here, Rexxa has managed to achieve the tenderness in the Beef Short Ribs (RM75) that we have come to expect by braising the meat for 48 hours. Roasted green apples help to cut through the meatiness and lend the dish a bit of sweetness.

Rexxa’s background as a pastry chef comes through with his dessert options like Popcorn Panna-Cotta, Passion Fruit Mousse and Eton Mess, all priced at RM30.

The menu at Brix changes every quarter to keep in season and is available with a la carte and course sets. BRIX, R-6-G, Ground Floor, M City Ampang, Jalan Ampang, Kuala Lumpur. (Tel: [phone]). Business hours: Noon to 9.30pm (Monday to Thursday); noon to 10.30pm (Friday to Sunday).

This is the writer’s personal observation and not an endorsement by StarMetro.