To assess what the new executive chef could bring to an international luxury restaurant brand, an osusume menu (chef’s recommendations) was created to test how well the new hire could execute the dishes.
Needless to say, Nobu Kuala Lumpur’s new executive chef Mauro Baldari and the kitchen team pulled it off very well – ending the selection of a dozen cold and hot dishes, curated by corporate chef Herve Courtot, with a grand dessert platter.
In the cold section, two dishes stood out. One, for its aesthetics. Another, its uniqueness.
One can describe the Shima-aji Goma Ponzu, which is white trevally in a roasted sesame and ponzu (citrus-soy) sauce, as “too pretty to eat”.
Garnished with purple Sweet Williams and zucchini ribbons, the firm and silky flesh of the fish was uplifted by a salty and nutty sauce. The crunch came from deep-fried nori crisps.
Veteran Japanese guest chef Tatsuo Takebayashi had rolled mizuna leaves into paper-thin slices of fish to add a sweet, peppery flavour.
While working with his nimble hands, the master chef also shared a pearl of wisdom from his personal cook book.
“For sushi and sashimi, only ocean fish is used. Unless the river where the fish comes from is flowing from a mountain far away from human habitation, no sushi chef will gamble on a freshwater swimmer.
“This is to avoid exposing the diner to parasites,” Takebayashi said.
Strawberries from Cameron Highlands in Pahang, and raw tuna belly in a sweet and sour citrus sauce gave the Tuna Tartare Calamansi Amazu Ponzu its unique twist.
Courtot said the recipe has been with the restaurant chain for the past three years.
“This dish was inspired by the yearly Wimbledon tennis matches where spectators would enjoy eating strawberries and cream while watching the game.”
The selection of Nori Tacos are also worth a try.
Ours consisted of guacamole topped with Oscietra caviar, Canadian lobster mixed with sour cream and wasabi, bluefin tuna chunks marinated in dry miso truffle and yuzu, as well as salmon in spicy miso garnished with blueberry flower.
We were advised to start with the guacamole and end with the salmon.
For optimal enjoyment, eat each piece in a single bite.
Also in the cold section was the Heirloom Tomato Ceviche with Ribeye Tataki. For this, A5 wagyu is used.
The flavour of the rich, buttery meat was highlighted with a garnishing of garlic chips which gave off a flavour of lightly toasted nuts.
The sweet and sourish notes of the tomato ceviche balanced the oiliness in this dish.
At the hot section, we discovered the wonders of grilled cut lime in the Chilean Seabass with Butter Lettuce.
The pulp is softer, releasing more juice. Heat also renders the tart acidity into a sweeter flavour.
One can only imagine how this deepens the flavours of the fish, marinated overnight with salt and a ginger-garlic paste.
The other seafood offerings were Seafood Harumaki with Maui Salsa and Caviar, as well as Scallops Kataifi with Tamari Honey.
The deep-fried harumaki (spring roll in Japanese) is filled with white fish, shrimp paste and shitake. A garnishing of Oscietra caviar gives it a luxurious touch.
For the kataifi, the two large meaty scallops, wrapped in threads of filo dough and deep-fried until golden brown, were very fresh.
Courtot said they were brought in from Hokkaido, Japan, every week.
Brightening the flavours of these mollusks is a crown of brunoised red onions, cucumber, tomatoes and capsicums. An interesting honey sauce with sour notes of tamarind enhanced the taste.
There was also the King Crab Agrume Ponzu, which sees the grilled leg of an Alaskan crustacean sitting in a salty and citrusy amber hued sauce.
What enables the diner to taste the sweetness of its flesh is they are frozen raw.
“The price difference is likened to heaven and earth.
“To ensure freshness, the newly caught crabs are frozen right on the boat at -60°C.
“To retain flavour, the crab must be thawed slowly, it’s taken out from the freezer and placed in a fridge overnight,” said Courtot.
A Wagyu Tenderloin with Truffle Crust, a combination of rich beefy notes and earthy nuttiness, saw A5 wagyu, with a juicy pink centre and a well-seared crust, served atop a bed of assorted mushrooms like shimeiji, shitake and king trumpets.
For dessert, we had the restaurant’s famous dark Valrhona chocolate fondant, mango jelly cheese cake, ice-cream, sorbet and mango kakigori with fresh pomelo.
NOBU KUALA LUMPUR, L4A-05, Level 4A, Shoppes at Four Seasons Place, Jalan Ampang, Kuala Lumpur. Tel: 03-2380 0028, 019-389 5085 (WhatsApp). Business hours: 11.45am to 2pm, 6pm-10.30pm.
This is the writer’s personal observation and is not an endorsement by StarMetro.
