A VISIT to Mukah would not be complete without sampling its signature dish, umai.
A mixture of sliced raw fish, lime juice, onions and spicy sambal, umai is one of the most recognisable dishes among the Melanau community in Sarawak, especially in Mukah.
Umai can be found at most eateries, but it is most abundantly available at the Mukah wet market, where it is sold in plastic containers.
For resident Duwin Udih, 67, umai is more than just a delicacy – it is a symbol of Melanau identity, tradition and togetherness. Although he only eats the traditional raw fish dish occasionally due to stomach issues, Duwin says his love for umai has never faded.
He recalls first trying umai when he was about 12 years old, and since then the dish has remained closely tied to his memories and cultural roots.
“Umai is our traditional food. It is part of our identity and a signature dish to us,” he says.
According to Duwin, the freshness of the fish is crucial in preparing a good plate of umai, but he stresses that the sambal plays an equally important role.
“The freshness of the fish is paramount. But the sambal is equally important because it determines the quality and taste of the umai,” he explains.
He adds that a well-prepared sauce can also help improve the taste when the fish is less fresh.
Beyond being a popular dish, Duwin believes umai continues to strengthen social bonds within the Melanau community.
“Umai is important to Melanau identity because it is part of our tradition and culture as far as social life is concerned. It can also serve as an attraction during reunions of friends, families and at other functions,” he says.
To those who have never tasted umai, Duwin encourages them to give it a try.
“Perhaps they can sample it and experience the taste of raw fish mixed with fresh spicy or moderately spicy sambal,” he says.
Trader Abu Bakar Masoud, 49, from Kampung Sungai Alo, has been making umai to sell at the wet market for 21 years.
Like Duwin, he emphasises the freshness of the fish as the key factor in ensuring the taste and quality of the dish.
“The freshness of the fish is very important as it determines the quality of the umai while ensuring the dish is enjoyable for customers,” he says.
Abu Bakar makes two popular types of umai – umai campur and umai jeb. Each is prepared differently according to customer preference.
He explains that the sambal for umai is made from a mixture of lime juice, sliced onions, chilli and salt, producing a sour and spicy flavour.
The preparation method still preserves the traditional practices that form part of the Melanau community’s identity.
Abu Bakar says demand for umai is increasing among locals and foreign visitors alike.
“Umai is often a popular choice, especially in the morning when freshly caught fish has just been delivered to the market by fishermen,” he says.
His umai sells for RM10 to RM12 per container, depending on the type of fish.
