A Kayan couple’s smoky secret

The wrapped durian is smoked until the leaves turn brown.

DURIAN, the king of fruits, is often enjoyed fresh or as part of a variety of products, from tempoyak and dodol to ice cream and fritters.

Among Sarawak’s Kayan community, however, a traditional and little-known method of preparing durian is to smoke it into a delicacy known as “diking dian”.

At Kampung Uma Beluvuh in Long Panai, in the Baram region of Sarawak, Hamilton Usang Luhat and his wife Jessy Paya Ngo are committed to preserving this tradition.

For them, “diking dian” is not just something to eat but represents a culinary heritage passed down through the generations.

Smoked durian known as ‘diking dian’ is a traditional delicacy of Sarawak’s Kayan community.

Hamilton, 60, has fond childhood memories of durian season in the village.

“In the past, there were sometimes so many durians that some had to be thrown away.

“There were no refrigerators back then, so our ancestors had to think of ways to preserve durian. That was how ‘diking dian’ came about,” he said.

The process begins by separating the durian flesh from the seeds and wrapping it in leaves known locally as “daun sip”.

Parcels of wrapped durian being smoked over charcoal embers. — Photos from Information Department

The wrapped durian is then smoked over charcoal embers until the leaves turn brown and the flesh becomes denser in texture.

For Jessy, the tradition of making “diking dian” should be preserved so that it doesn’t die out.

“I hope my grandchildren and the younger generation will not forget how to prepare this traditional delicacy.

“I believe it can potentially be commercialised if we put in serious effort,” she said.

Hamilton smoking the wrapped durian to make ‘diking dian’.

According to the couple, no other ingredients are used in making “diking dian”, only durian and the leaves to wrap it.

The leaves add a fragrant aroma to the smoked durian and help it to last longer.

Jessy wrapping durian flesh in a leaf locally known as ‘daun sip’.

Hamilton and Jessy also hope that the Agriculture Department and other relevant agencies can assist durian farmers to produce more durian-based products besides “diking dian” and market them to customers.

This would help to reduce wastage, while preserving and reviving the traditional food of local communities.