As modern treats dominate Ramadan bazaars, a 77‑year‑old kuih maker is proving that the her traditional kuih tepung talam recipe still holds appeal.
For Som Abdul Halim, also known as Mak Njang, the recipe she created in 1966 remains unchanged.
The kuih’s soft texture and balanced sweetness continue to draw loyal customers from across Kedah and Penang.
“In the past, I had nothing much to do at home when my husband went to the padi fields, so I started experimenting with kuih tepung talam,” she told Bernama at her shop in Kampung Padang, Jitra in Kedah.
“In the early days, I threw away many batches because they didn’t turn out well, but after repeated attempts, I succeeded and I have been making it ever since.”
What began as a small household venture has grown into a Ramadan staple.
“When I first started out, my husband would deliver the kuih by motorcycle from Jitra to Alor Setar, and production was on a small scale,” she said.
“From just 20 to 30 containers back then, sales have now reached between 200 and 300 containers a day.”
Demand rises during the fasting month, although Som insists on offering only six kuih varieties – tepung talam gula melaka, talam pandan, talam ubi, seri muka pandan, seri muka durian and kuih kosui.
“During Ramadan, demand is very high and can reach up to 700 containers a day.
“My routine is to come to the shop at midnight to prepare the batter,” she said, adding that she was assisted by a granddaughter and 14 workers.
“The process of making kuih takes time, as everything is only ready by 11am.”
Once the various kuih are ready, agents arrive to collect them for distribution across Kedah and Penang.
Despite her age and declining health, Som, who uses a wheelchair to move around, insists on being part of production.
“Even at my age, when I should be resting at home, I still come to the shop to because it is part of my routine.
“I feel happy when people eat the kuih and say they are delicious, because they are made with my own hands and my own recipe.”
Her eldest granddaughter, Yusrina Muhamad Yusof, 36, is determined to carry the legacy forward.
“I have lived with my grandmother since I was a baby, and have been watching her make kuih talam from young.
“That’s how I learned and developed an interest in cooking,” she said, adding that she has since learned the recipe from her grandmother.
While younger generations may be less inclined to learn the painstaking process of traditional kuih‑making, the enduring popularity of Som’s recipes shows that some flavours remain timeless.
