Classic styles are taking a more expressive turn this season, with designers reworking familiar wardrobe staples through unexpected necklines and dramatic collars.
Across the Autumn/Winter 2026 runways, collars are moving beyond their traditional role, taking on sculptural shapes, exaggerated proportions and romantic detailing.
The effect is extremely striking on otherwise conventional pieces, allowing a single design element to transform the entire silhouette.
White shirts and other wardrobe staples are particularly well suited to this treatment.
Their familiar construction provides a clean canvas for experimentation, while the collar becomes the focal point where designers can introduce something more unexpected.
Read more: How fashion is giving the timeless 'little black dress' a modern twist
This season, romantic goth is also influencing the look, with elements of moody elegance, ruffles and dramatic proportions appearing across collections.
The result is a new take on polished dressing that feels both refined and slightly theatrical.
At Louis Vuitton, a dramatic interpretation comes in the form of a maxi dress.
Here, the square neckline takes centre stage, with crisp, linear lines replacing the usual rounded shape and drawing attention to the face.
Its pleated body lends the dress a sense of movement, balancing its fluidity with the geometric structure of the design.
Where shirts are concerned, the cotton blouse from COS is an excellent example of this idea.
Although exaggerated necklines can often come across as melodramatic, this garment can actually lend its wearer an air of elegance – thanks to the sophisticated pintucks.
The narrow, vertical lines, which run from the funnel-neck right down to the hem, also create a slimming effect, driving home the polished aesthetics.
For some whimsy to this idea, look to Dior, as the fashion house plays on the iconic bow motif.
The structured bodice may be typical for a dress shirt, but the tied collar can give an unexpected yet chic twist to any ensemble.
Thanks to the perfect harmony between fun and formal, the garment can take you from day to night with very minor changes.
This similar construction can be seen over at Saint Laurent as well, through the lavalliere shirt.
The key difference, however, lies in the structured shoulders, with internal boning giving the garment a more imposing silhouette.
An integrated tie collar adds further drama, while the crisp poplin gives it a stiffer structure, resulting in one of the more striking pieces here.
Read more: Fashion weeks put versatile dressing, soft colours and bold volume in focus
Looking for something more diaphanous in nature? One of Carolina Herrera’s latest items may just be the one.
Made of 100% sheer silk organza, the lightweight material is ideal for warmer days.
In addition to the translucency, the sweeping, oversized bow also adds a touch of intrigue to the top, which comes with a separate V-neck camisole for coverage.
For a quieter take on this trend, see the latest cotton shirt from Polo Ralph Lauren.
The softly gathered neckline still lends this air of romance, but with just the right amount of coverage.
This design choice gives the shirt, which is made of cotton and silk, an airiness that is perfect for the Malaysian climate.
