Why tan suits remain a deeply political and fashion flashpoint in the US


By AGENCY
Stephen Colbert (right) and David Letterman (centre) attend the dedication ceremony for the opening of the Obama Presidential Center, both wearing tan suits. Photo: Reuters

The dress code did not call for khaki, but nonetheless, the tan suits were out in full force for the glittery opening of Barack Obama’s presidential library in Chicago on Thursday (June 18).

David Letterman, Stephen Colbert and the Obama Foundation board chair, Martin Nesbitt, all arrived at the event in same-same khaki suits.

The men’s suits, of course, alluded to Obama’s notorious tan suit, which he wore in August 2014 at a news conference about the US response to the Islamic State group.

Whatever Obama said that day about the goings-on in Syria is lost to popular memory. Instead, it was the tan outfit that drew all the attention and hand-wringing.

Obama’s decision not to wear the more expected navy or black on that occasion ignited days of breathless scrutiny, particularly from members of the Republican Party and the conservative media ecosystem, many of whom deemed the outfit insufficiently formal for the West Wing.

Read more: Too tall, too short, too fashionable: Why menswear still doesn't fit all guys

For days, politicians and pundits embraced a new job: fashion police.

“The suit was a metaphor for his lack of seriousness,” Republican US Congressman (at that time) Peter King told Newsmax.

Lou Dobbs of Fox News thought it was “shocking to a lot of people”.

Mainstream publications assessed the merits of the suit itself, with GQ and New York magazine deeming it “sad”.

Obama’s defenders pointed out that past presidents, including Ronald Reagan, had worn tan suits in the Oval Office, particularly during Washington’s sweltering summers.

The upshot was that not since Abraham Lincoln’s stovepipe hat has a single article of clothing been so closely associated with a US president.

Coverage lasted for days, and the tan suit controversy received its own, quite thorough Wikipedia page.

“It was inspired by a very good friend of mine, who made tan suits famous,” Nesbitt said during a speech Thursday (June 18) during which he stepped back from the lectern to show off his tan suit in full.

“And I don’t know about the rest of you all, but I thought he looked pretty good wearing his, so I decided to wear one myself.”

The former president appeared to approve. 

As Nesbitt took the stage, Obama could be heard saying, “I love that tan suit.”

Nesbitt and Colbert committed to the bit, wearing striped ties that echoed the one Obama wore with his suit more than a decade ago.

Letterman, now well into his “can’t tell me what to do” retirement, paired his with a more insouciant T-shirt.

That these men opted for khaki exemplified how the left has embraced the suit, contorting it into a knowing reminder of the scrutiny that Obama faced while in office.

Read more: Pantless, please? Skirt suits are enjoying a revival within the fashion world

This attitude didn’t take long to set in.

In 2019, The Daily Show, where Colbert was once a correspondent, did a satirical segment on the tan suit, mockingly declaring, “No president has ever done anything worse.”

Out of office, Obama winked back at #khakigate when in 2022 he joked that Robert McCurdy, who painted his official portrait, “Talked me out of wearing a tan suit”.

Other Democrats have since worn tan suits, including former vice president Kamala Harris, who opted for one during the first night of the Democratic National Convention in 2024.

Back then, (New York Times fashion reporter) Vanessa Friedman wrote that the connection to Obama couldn’t have escaped Harris.

As for Obama’s actual tan suit, it is not on display in the library. The former president gave it away. – ©2026 The New York Times Company

This article originally appeared in The New York Times.

Follow us on our official WhatsApp channel for breaking news alerts and key updates!
fashion , trends , menswear , suits , Barrack Obama

Next In Style

Designer Humberto Leon brings his Kenzo-era eye to a forgotten fashion name
South Korean fashion is moving from Y2K kitsch to ‘grown woman’ polish
In the UK, fashion feels the impact of weight-loss drugs as shoppers downsize
Decoding Melania Trump’s fashion at the White House dinner for China’s leader
Luxury fashion’s glittering runways hide a growing struggle for shoppers
Are we returning to the 90s? US fashion brand seeks cool with boy band tie-up
Beyond straight hair: Malaysians are rethinking beauty standards around curls
Milan Fashion Week runways stay bright as luxury fashion finds its footing
Feathers the new fur, but same cruelty? Fashion's ostrich plume use questioned
Can Donatella Versace make luxury style click with younger shoppers?

Others Also Read