Retailer opens boutique in Pavilion KL, adds Swiss brand to its stable of independent watchmakers and microbrands.
TWO years shy of its 20th anniversary, Red Army Watches (RAW) has embarked on another chapter in its evolution story by opening a new boutique in Pavilion Kuala Lumpur.
This store is 16 years in the making, as RAW has been showcasing its stable of independent watchmakers and microbrands at a kiosk in the same mall.
While it already has a store in 1 Utama shopping centre in Bandar Utama, Petaling Jaya, this latest move from kiosk to its own 572sq ft store in Pavilion Kuala Lumpur − since end June − is no less a momentous step in the retailer’s expansion in Malaysia.
The new boutique also sees the addition of Nivada Grenchen to the RAW portfolio, making it the first retailer in Malaysia to carry this Swiss brand.
Founded in 1926, Nivada Grenchen earned a reputation for producing purpose-driven watches.
The company gained international recognition in 1954 with the launch of the Antarctic, a model later tested during the US navy’s “Operation Deep Freeze” expeditions between 1955 and 1956, where it proved its performance in one of the world’s harshest environments.
StarChrono speaks to RAW co-founders, executive director Soemantri Kusumadi and managing director Julianna Chai.
What inspired the move to a boutique and why now?
Soemantri: After 18 years in the watch business, we feel that RAW has reached a stage where it needs a space that better represents who we are today and where we want to go next.
The standalone kiosk allowed us to introduce many independent and lesser-known watch brands to a wider audience.
But as our portfolio grew, we realised we also needed an environment where customers could discover the brands at length and understand the stories behind the watches.
The 1 Utama boutique has given us valuable experience in understanding how customers interact with our brands in a larger and more comfortable retail environment.
In Pavilion Kuala Lumpur, moving to a full-fledged boutique was a natural progression.
We also see the Malaysian watch market evolving; customers today are more knowledgeable and adventurous.
They are looking beyond the usual names and increasingly interested in independent and micro brands that offer something different.
The new boutique reflects the growth of RAW, and reflects the deepening appreciation for independent watchmaking here.
Chai: From the customer experience perspective, the boutique offers the opportunity to create a more comfortable and welcoming environment.
Buying a watch, especially from an independent or lesser-known brand, is often about discovery.
Customers want to try different pieces, compare designs and movements, and hear the stories behind the brands.
Together with our 1 Utama boutique (515sq ft), the new Pavilion Kuala Lumpur location allows us to offer customers a more complete RAW experience across both locations.
What can customers expect from the new boutique that wasn’t possible in the previous format?
Soemantri: The biggest difference here is the opportunity for discovery.
Red Army Watches has always been about introducing customers to watches that they may not see elsewhere.
Our portfolio brings together independent brands, heritage watchmakers and younger microbrands, each with its own design philosophy and story.
The new boutique gives these brands more space to express their individual identities while still being part of the overall RAW experience.
It also allows us to carry a broader selection, introduce new collections and create more opportunities for launches, previews and gatherings with collectors.
Chai: From a customer’s perspective, what is interesting about our portfolio is the variety of experiences that these brands offer.
Someone may walk into RAW because they are interested in the history of Nivada Grenchen, while another may be attracted to the creativity of Beaubleu, and others may discover SEVENFRIDAY for the first time.
That element of discovery is very important to us.
How does the space better reflect the Red Army Watches identity and philosophy?
Soemantri: Our philosophy has always been about making watch collecting interesting, personal and enjoyable.
We have always believed that customers should have the opportunity to discover brands beyond the mainstream.
This philosophy can be seen throughout our portfolio, whether it’s the innovative mechanical designs of Ciga Design; the distinctive circular hands of Beaubleu; the heritage of Chinese watchmaking in Shanghai Watch; the contemporary vintage approach of Baltic; the minimalist Italian design of Unimatic; the German aviation heritage of Laco; the space exploration stories behind Sturmanskie; or Russian heritage of Poljot International.
Each of these brands is very different, but they all have a strong identity and a genuine story.
This boutique lets us bring that philosophy to life.
Chai: Some people can feel intimidated walking into a traditional luxury watch store, especially if they are new to watches.
Whether someone is buying their first mechanical watch or has been collecting for many years, we want them to feel comfortable asking questions, trying on different watches and discovering something new.
Tell us more about Nivada Grenchen.
Soemantri: What attracted us to Nivada Grenchen was its combination of genuine Swiss watchmaking heritage and its relevance to today’s collectors.
The brand has a rich history and strong archive of watches.
It manages to bring those designs back in a way that still feels relevant and wearable today.
Nivada Grenchen fits naturally into our portfolio philosophy.
Models such as the Chronomaster, Antarctic and F77 have strong historical foundations, while still appealing to a new generation of watch enthusiasts.
We feel that the timing is right because collectors in Malaysia are becoming increasingly interested in heritage, authenticity and the stories behind watches.
They are doing more research and looking beyond just the brand name.
For us, Nivada Grenchen represents exactly what we look for in a brand: character, history, good design and a clear identity.
Chai: Nivada Grenchen adds another dimension to our portfolio because it appeals to customers who appreciate heritage and vintage-inspired design, while remaining very wearable and relevant today.
It is also a brand that has been very well received across the RAW family.
Nivada Grenchen is also carried by RAW Singapore and Indonesia, which reflects our confidence in the brand and its appeal across different markets in the region.
We believe collectors throughout South-East Asia appreciate the same qualities – authentic heritage, timeless design, and excellent value.
What are your favourite parts of the boutique and what makes it different from other watch stores?
Chai: For me, it is the atmosphere here, and the way we interact with our customers.
We want people to feel comfortable spending time in the boutique.
There is no pressure. You can come in, try on different watches, ask questions and learn about brands you may never have heard of before.
One customer may come in looking for a traditional pilot watch and discover Laco.
Another customer may become interested in the history behind Alexander Shorokhoff.
That process of discovery is what makes RAW different.
Many of our relationships with customers have developed over many years, and some customers have become friends of RAW.
That sense of community and personal connection is something we want to preserve as we grow.
The Pavilion Kuala Lumpur boutique may be new and larger, but the philosophy remains the same.
Soemantri: I think the biggest difference is the selection and diversity of brands.
RAW has always focused on brands with strong identities, interesting stories and distinctive approaches to watchmaking.
The brands come from different countries, cultures and watchmaking traditions, and are available across a wide range of price points.
What connects them is individuality.
We believe this creates a very different watch-buying experience, because there is always something unexpected to discover.
What other plans and brands can we expect in the near future?
Soemantri: Our priority is to continue developing RAW as a destination for discovering independent brands and microbrands.
We are always looking for brands that have a clear identity and something meaningful to offer, whether that comes from heritage, design, innovation or an interesting approach to watchmaking.
However, we are also very selective.
We don’t want to add brands just to make the portfolio bigger.
Every brand we introduce has a reason to be at RAW and offers something different to our customers.
Chai: We would also like to make the boutiques more dynamic and create more reasons for customers to visit regularly.
Ultimately, we want to continue building a community around RAW, rather than just be a basic watch retailer.
