Menswear leans classic at the recent fashion weeks, but with bold twists

Models present looks at the Prada Autumn/Winter 2026 menswear fashion show in Milan. Photo: The New York Times

Some of the best fashion at the recent menswear shows in Europe took traditional forms.

Ralph Lauren, at its first menswear-only show in decades, showcased exquisite versions of the three-piece suit (worn by models and celebrity guests).

Trench coats were also in abundance on and off runways. Some looked classic, while others – like those layered beneath capelet-like anoraks at Prada – did not resemble conventional trenches much at all.

The same could be said for certain double-breasted jackets at Dior, which had cropped waists and long sleeves that swallowed hands.

Playing with proportions was not unique to designers – many jackets on the street were shrunken, while some scarves were so expansive they looked more like blankets.

Read more: Menswear turns pragmatic as fashion designers play it safe amid uncertainty

And a few weren’t scarves, but sweaters tied around the neck, one of many parts of the body where they were worn more like an accessory (other sweaters were tied around waists and shoulders).

Another styling trend: wearing an insulated vest over a winter coat.

Vibrantly coloured clothing distinguished the collections from labels such as Auralee and Dries Van Noten, as well as ensembles seen outside shows.

Some were worn by other street-style photographers, earning them comments along the lines of: “You shouldn’t be taking my picture. I should be taking yours!” – ©2026 The New York Times Company

This article originally appeared in The New York Times.