2020 timepiece trends: What the leading luxury watchmakers think we want

From left: Nicolas Baretzki of Montblanc, Christoph Grainger-Herr of IWC Schaffhausen and Raynald Aeschlimann of Omega speak of the 2020 watch designs.

Despite all the upheavals from a world gripped by a pandemic (which is affecting the fashion world at large), most of the key players in the luxury watch industry are still releasing their novelties for 2020.

These include some of the most amazing high-end horological creations – from innovative complications to breath-taking designs.

So, what are the trends that we can expect this year? In 2019, watchmakers gave a big push to heritage pieces. Last year also saw the use of composite materials (like carbon alloys), as well as less-conventional colourings (all-blue or rugged green).

“I think we will see a continuing demand for women’s watches with sportier designs and larger case sizes, as these watches complement the more casual style, which is now common in the workplace, ” notes Omega president and CEO Raynald Aeschlimann.

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“Colour is very important for watch buyers, but I don’t think they look for the latest shade, it’s more a question of which colour suits their style and of course this can change depending on the kind of watch and how it fits into their life.”

The trends from 2019 are predicted to stay. Archival designs are still a big focus for watchmakers it seems. Newly-released designs continue to make a grand statement too, whether in terms of unique shades or by evoking memories.

The Montblanc 1858 Geosphere, with its distinctive domed turning hemisphere globes and world time complication, now comes with a blue colouring contrasted by icy white design details.

“Indeed, the strong vintage trend that we witnessed last year has contributed to enforce the focus on these watches, ” says Montblanc CEO Nicolas Baretzki, regarding heritage designs.

He adds: “In terms of colours, after having launched models in khaki green and pink salmon that brought back the vintage colour from the 1940s, we will present a new blue icy theme capsule, as a nod to glaciers and snowy-mountain environments.”

“For the retro or archival designs, well, the design of every Omega watch has a connection to our heritage. Even our most recent watches draw their design inspiration from the past, ” Aeschlimann points out.

More than just telling time

Watchmakers have always been innovative. The novelties for this year are no less remarkable in terms of their complications (features in a mechanical timepiece beyond the display of hours, minutes and seconds).

“Over our 150-year history, we have developed a reputation for creating functional complications. We are specialising in chronographs and calendars, which are ingenious, robust, and easy for customers to use, ” remarks IWC Schaffhausen CEO Christoph Grainger-Herr.

Giving an example, he points to the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide. This particular watch is able to inform wearers about the approximate time of the next high water and low water.

“The double moon phase display of this watch was extended to also show spring tides or neap tides, informing about the strength of the current tides, ” explains Grainger-Herr, highlighting the fact that what a watch can do goes well beyond just telling time.

As a nautical sports watch, the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club combines timeless style with ruggedness and high water-resistance.

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A love for tradition

What about smartwatches? While it has hovered in the scene of Swiss watchmaking, the idea of smartwatches has not really taken off. Brands like Tag Heuer may have fully capitalised on the trend, but for others, it is still a taboo of sorts.

The Omega De Ville Tresor has been updated with the latest colours, as well as the brand’s unique new alloy.

“We would never shy away from changes in technology, in fact, we embrace change, but we have no interest in competing directly with this kind of digital technology, as it’s not compatible with what we do, ” Aeschlimann says.

“Besides, our customers would be baffled and perhaps even disappointed if we went down this road, as they look to us to maintain a watchmaking tradition. I often equate our situation to classic cars or record players.

“You don’t see enthusiasts of these things just pushing them aside because there’s a new thing that’s faster, lighter or cheaper. Of course, there are almost daily advances in technology, but buying the latest fad is not important to everyone.”