How Paris mushroom growers struggle to preserve heritage deep underground

Paris' underground mushroom farmers are fighting to keep the tradition alive. Photo: AFP

Two centuries ago, French farmers revolutionised mushroom production by moving into the maze of limestone quarries underneath Paris, but today only a handful still cultivate a heritage at risk of fading away for good.

The bitter irony is that demand for traditionally grown white button mushrooms, and their more flavourful brown-capped cousins, is as high as ever.