Early last year, Restaurant Stefania opened in KL’s salubrious Naza Tower, helmed by the talented Diego Reali.
The restaurant soon became hugely popular for its Roman-Italian fare and the upscale yet family-hewn spirit that abounded, predominantly because it was named after Reali’s mother Stefania, and boasted a menu that required frequent calls to mama Stefania to ensure authenticity.
A few weeks ago, Reali expanded the Stefania footprint with the launch of Stefania Osteria – this time in the swanky suburban neighbourhood of KL’s Damansara Heights.
If the original Stefania was the regal first-born child with inclinations for the finer things in life, then Stefania Osteria is the playful, wholesome second child dedicated to the simpler yet just-as-rewarding things in life.
The restaurant has a delightful aesthetic that features large floor-to-ceiling windows with views of the sprawling canopy of trees outside. Inside, strategically placed potted plants and monochrome flooring brighten up the space, which has a sunny, cheerful vibe.
Reali says the idea behind Stefania Osteria was to launch a second iteration of the brand but with a different spin to it.
“We wanted to introduce a new concept, which is more casual and more family-style – something that would make this a nice neighbourhood restaurant. And the reason we wanted it in this location is because of customer demand – a lot of my customers are based here.
“So the food is also very casual – it’s very ‘osteria-style’ which means ‘neighbourhood restaurant’ in Italian,” says Reali.
To facilitate this, the meals at Stefania Osteria are served in smaller portions, priced at about 50% less than its central KL sister restaurant.
Most of the main meals are just about right for solo eaters with smaller appetites while appetisers can be shared by approximately two people.
For bigger parties, the recommendation is to order more and share among the table.
“The price point is lower, so we’re hoping people will order more and come more often,” says Reali.
From what’s on offer on the menu, definitely look at trying the Taco Prawn (RM36) which features prawns drenched in a creamy mayonnaise-based dressing juxtaposed against avocado and mounted atop crisp wanton shells.
This is a little like a classic prawn cocktail, except with a brittle, crusty case surrounding it.
The prawns are the highlight here and are plump and voluptuous with a good, firm bite and a hedonistic aftertaste, courtesy of the rich dressing that saturates it.
Then there is the Gamberi Aglio Olio e Peperoncino (RM46) a classic tapas staple made up of prawns swimming in garlic, olive oil, chilli and parsley.
The prawns are fat and fluffy and the olive oil that surrounds it like a protective moat is unctuous and garlicky with a gentle hint of fire running through its veins.
The Polpettine di Agnello (RM28) features lamb meatballs positioned dexterously against capsicum, hummus and smoked ricotta.
It’s a slightly odd constellation of flavours that slowly makes sense but only when you have a spoonful of all the components in your mouth. Then you’ll understand how it all comes together on the palate.
From the pasta selections, definitely try the Ravioli del Contadino (RM38) which is ravioli stuffed with eggplant and ricotta and topped with a blanket of tomato sauce and Pecorino cheese.
The ravioli is a thing of beauty and perfection with just the right amount of push-pull give-and-take while the stuffing elicits both lusciousness as well as an ooey-gooey hedonism.
The Conchiglie al Forno (RM39) meanwhile features peperonata (vegetable stew), lamb sausage and smoked ricotta paired with large sea shell shaped pasta smothered under a warm quilt of smoked ricotta.
This is a warm, comforting pairing that highlights all the different components to fullest effect – the plumpness of the sausages and the thick, rich peperonata which fills all the crevices and corners of the pasta and finally – the smoked ricotta which adds a layer of rustic nirvana to this hugely satiating meal.
From the mains, you could opt for the Involtini al Sugo (RM86) which is essentially slow-cooked beef rolls in tomato sauce. According to Reali, this is a dish that is commonly served on Sundays in Italy.
Your response to this dish depends on how much you actually enjoy the taste of beef, because this is sort of an in-your-face meal in terms of the meaty punch that it packs. It could be a bit too much if you’re not a fan of overt meaty overtures – I personally found it a bit overwhelming.
But if you actually like rich, bovine flavours, you’ll probably find this appealing as like most things in life, its success hinges on individual diner’s preferences and predilections.
End your meal on a sweet high with the Torta alla Vaniglia E Meringa (RM36) which boasts vanilla sponge and a toasted meringue crown.
This is a masterclass in how to cap a meal with a sweet yet euphoric finale that has simplicity, lightness and a bewitching quality etched into its profile, both in form as well as flavour.
Moving forward, Reali says there are plans to expand the Stefania line of restaurants in the future, although he is looking at a slow, steady expansion as opposed to aggressive growth.
“Our concept is to expand Stefania – so we have the original one which is more high-end, we have the osteria, which is more family-centred and we might have another offshoot of the brand, which is more easy-going,” says Reali.
