The eatery is designed to resemble a traditional British gastropub. — Elementary
A walk through Elementary Restaurant & Bar in The Exchange TRX in Kuala Lumpur seems like a sojourn to an entirely different country altogether.
The restaurant is designed in homage to legendary British sleuth Sherlock Holmes, hence its name (which borrows from the classic Sherlock Holmes line, “Elementary, my dear Watson’’). It captures the essence of early 20th century nostalgia, while couched in modern trappings.
From an aesthetic perspective, the restaurant encapsulates the spirit of an old-fashioned British pub, from the wood accents, carpeted floors, dimly-lit interior, quiet corners with shadowy windows in the background and the big, sprawling bar that takes centre stage in the eatery.
The creative output and collaborative effort of the Valiram Group and Cinnamon Group, which own and operate eateries like Nadodi and Las Meninas, Elementary has a curated menu that trawls through the best of British classics and local favourites.
At the same time, it also delivers a quintessential lifestyle experience that includes beers on tap and live football matches shown on television screens throughout the restaurant.
The experience is guided by restaurant manager Hussain Emraan, who grew up in England and has spent nearly 20 years working all over the world in F&B.
The mix and match platter lets diners savour a delicious range of snacks and bar bites. — ABIRAMI DURAI/The Star
There’s plenty to whet the appetite at the eatery, but to begin with, look at indulging in the Elementary Mix n Match (RM89). This sumptuous range of bar bites and snacks combine four different in-house winners on one plate and is perfect for tucking into while nursing a pint or two.
Of what’s on offer, the buffalo chicken wings are sensationally good, combining a flavourful exterior that segues into juicy, succulent meat inside.
The chicken tikka skewers are also fabulous and deliver bite-sized morsels of chicken saturated in a rich smorgasbord of spices with a hint of fire running through its veins. Incidentally, chicken tikka masala is widely considered one of England’s national dishes and is beloved throughout the country.
Up next, look at tucking into a plate (or 10) of the Hot Butter Calamari (RM36). A Sri Lankan staple, the dish is made by first battering and deep-frying squid and then coating it in a tangy, butter-laden sauce. This entire assemblage is topped with curry leaves and onions in what proves to be a ridiculously good combination.
The squid is perfectly battered and fried and this ASMR-worthy crunch and crackle yields to tentacles that still retain a pliant spring.
The hot butter sauce adds an addictive quotient to the meal that is amped up by encouraging teammates in the ilk of the onions and curry leaves in what proves to be an all-star cheerleading squad.
The eatery’s fish & chips is a gold standard meal that delivers perfection on every count. — Elementary
Switch things up and go for a classic British dish in the form of the Fish & Chips (RM85 for Scottish cod).
Fish and chips is ubiquitous throughout Britain but often, interpretations of the dish are greasy and oversaturated in oil, so finding a variation that boasts the requisite crispiness without also disintegrating into an oily mess is an endeavour worthy of Sherlock Holmes himself.
Thankfully, the search is over almost as soon as it begins as Elementary’s variant delivers the goods from the start. Here, you will discover thick battered fish fillets that are sensationally crispy and yet not overwhelmingly oily. This crunchiness gives way to fresh cod fish that is plump and flaky to the touch.
The chips served on the side have been cooked to perfection and are crisp with a satisfying soft starchiness.
Pies are one of the hallmarks of British cuisine and date back to the 13th century. As a consequence, you’ll find them in all shapes and sizes with an assortment of fillings throughout the country.
The truffle chicken pie is based on a recipe used for the Oscars after-party.
At Elementary, one of the most popular pies is the eatery’s Truffle Chicken Pie (RM49) which is a take on a recipe designed by famed chef Wolfgang Puck for the Oscars after-party menu. The dish is reportedly a favourite of songstress Barbra Streisand.
Even if like most mere mortals, you haven’t had the chance to sample the original, this spin-off will blow your socks off.
The pie crust is buttery and brittle and this gives way to an interior that is creamy and packed with tender morsels of chicken.
The truffle is omnipresent in this equation and lends an opulent quality to the meal that will give you an idea of what it’s like to dine with the stars.
The eatery’s shepherd’s pie is intensely satisfying from the first mouthful to the last. — Photos: ABIRAMI DURAI/The Star
Another pie to remember is the Shepherd’s Pie (RM58) which features minced lamb cooked with vegetables and topped with a cheesy mashed potato crust.
Here, the mashed potato crust is very, very good – mashed finely without any pebble-esque potato bits in between and a cheesy countenance to top it off.
The filling meanwhile is luscious - the meat is saturated in flavour and balances the potato crust with dexterity and a fine sense of equilibrium.
Sweet and squishy, the sticky toffee pudding makes for a classic British ending to a meal.
End your meal on a sweet note with the Sticky Toffee Pudding (RM21) which showcases a sponge cake infused with finely-chopped dates and topped with a toffee sauce.
In this iteration, the sponge cake is a tad dense – nothing too sacrilegious that you won’t want to eat it, but just a textural variance that you may not be a fan of.
Thankfully, this is quickly remedied by the toffee sauce, which is thick, rich and wonderfully sweet.
Sherlock’s Smoking Pipe unfurls its layers like a good mystery.
In true British gastropub fashion, the eatery has a range of intoxicants designed to satiate and soothe all your worries away. If you’re up for it, try one of the house cocktails in the form of Sherlock’s Smoking Pipe (RM42). This is made up of mezcal, coffee liqueur and cinnamon, and proves to be a potent, lethal combination that feels like the slow, steady unravelling of a good, old-fashioned mystery.
Ultimately, a meal at Elementary makes no pretences about what it’s about, delivering a quintessential British experience that fans of English pubs and British culinary fare will find plenty to savour and enjoy.
