Tamarind Springs, the dining get-away

Sweet, sour and spicy nuances came together in this prawn dish served at Tamarind Springs. Photos GLENN GUAN/The Star

This eatery in bring diners out of Malaysia, without having to travel too far.

Pretty much a portal into another world, Tamarind Springs in Taman Tun Abdul Razak showcases some of the best of Indochina’s gastronomic offerings. A restaurant under the umbrella of the Samadhi Retreats group, which also operates Tamarind Hills and NEO Tamarind, Tamarind Springs is known for its ambience and authentic Indochinese cuisine.

Tamarind Springs’ tranquil dining space.

Helming the kitchen team is long-serving executive chef Somjuhan Wandee, who joined the restaurant upon its opening in 1999. Originally from Chiang Mai, Thailand, she brought time-honoured local recipes to Malaysian diners.

Despite her old school approach to cooking and love of tradition, Somjuhan adds a few modern touches to the menu without compromising the cuisine’s authentic flavours – so you’ll find ingredients like strawberries, asparagus and chocolate in a few dishes. Dish components are made from scratch, right down to the pastes used in the restaurant’s signature curries. She also takes ingredient sourcing very seriously and regularly imports produce from the various countries in the Indochinese region.

A stone’s throw away from Kelab Golf Abdul Razak, the restaurant is surrounded by greenery, which immediately whisks you away from the hustle and bustle of the city. The use of wood in the interior decor, and the open-air concept makes you feel one with nature. Tamarind Springs is sought after for events and the restaurant can accommodate up to 200 patrons at a time.

Chestnuts gave the scallops and strawberries textural diversity (left); the Vietnamese Lettuce Wrap came in little bites.

Food is served in sharing plates. The menu is extensive, with dishes ranging from the comparatively simple Laotian-Style Fried Mushrooms with Pickled Vegetables (RM26) to house specialities like the Red Fish Curry Cambogee (RM45), a traditional Cambodian dish. Rice dishes include the Cambodian Ginger Fried Rice with Chicken and Seafood (RM24) and Khmer Mixed Seafood Fried Rice (RM24).

The starting plates were of Pan Seared Scallops tossed with Strawberries (RM36) and Vietnamese Lettuce Wrap with Minced Chicken and Prawns (RM28). Slices of water chestnuts gave the delicate scallops and strawberries textural diversity. The sauce, made with strawberries, tamarind and chilli, had a much-appreciated mix of spicy and tart flavours. The chicken and prawn filling in the following dish was carefully pounded with a pestle and mortar before being wrapped in wilted lettuce. The result? We devoured the flavourful bite-sized nuggets in a jiffy!

It’s no surprise that the fragrant green curry beef is one of Tamarind Spring’s bestsellers.

It wasn’t long before the waiter dished out plates of fluffy white rice, signifying the arrival of our main courses. Tamarind Springs’ signature dish of Cambodian Green Beef Curry (RM48) was a delectable journey into the very best Somjuhan has to offer. Palm sugar was used to sweeten the curry, while fresh tamarind pulp added a refreshing tartness. A hint of bitterness from the pea eggplant and a touch of spice from the red chilli went brilliantly with the dish. Another must-have is the Laotian Stir-Fried Duck with Ginger and Chilli (RM48). Red chilli and green peppercorns gave a subtle kick of heat and enhanced the savoury flavours of the duck.

If you prefer seafood, the Grilled White Prawns served with Tamarind Sauce (RM50) would be an easy pick. The gravy hosted spicy and sour flavours and the prawns’ time on the grill gave the dish a smoky flavour. Moving away from meat and seafood, the Broccoli and Tofu in Almond Sauce (RM28) is a good bet if you fancy adding a splash of green to your meal. Subtle sweetness from the clever addition of oranges made each bite a delightful experience. The stir-fried broccoli and almonds also added a good crunch.

Pink Diamonds are a pretty dessert.

We ended our meal with the Pink Diamonds (RM16), which is Tamarind Springs’ take on the classic Thai dessert, tab thim krob. Soaked in rose syrup and coated with tapioca powder, the water chestnuts cubes were nicely sweetened and had a good bite. The jackfruit slices also worked well with the creaminess of the coconut milk.          

While prices at Tamarind Springs tend to be a little steep, the experience more than makes up for it. With authentic eats and a warm, inviting atmosphere, this dining retreat feeds both the stomach and the soul. Whatever the occasion, this is definitely one pick that would make any list.

Tamarind Springs
Jalan 1
Taman Tun Abdul Razak
Ampang
Selangor
Tel: [phone]
Opens daily, noon-3pm, 6.30pm-10.30pm

This review first appeared in the February issue of Flavours, Malaysia’s premier food lifestyle magazine. The March issue is out now.