Aromatic, rustic ayam percik

Ayam percik is a traditional Malay speciality that originated from Kelantan.

Percik literally translates as splash, but it also means splatter or baste.

The name could have been derived from the sound of fatty juices sputtering as the chicken is grilled over an open flame, or it could refer to the thickened coconut paste that is splashed onto the chicken halfway through roasting.

If you have ever driven through Kelantan, you would have seen ayam percik stalls along the streets.

The air would be filled with the burning smell of wood and coconut husk, and some restraint was required to keep from stopping at every stall to take in the heady aroma.

The chickens sold at these stalls are usually quartered so customers can choose their desired cuts.

They are usually bound together with stalks of lemongrass, which are used to not only flip the chicken on the grill but also to enhance the flavour.

You may roast the chicken whole, spatchcocked, or cut up into quarters. I prefer to spatchcock the chicken so that I can roast and baste both the inside and outside of the bird.

The traditional Kelantanese ayam percik tends to be quite sweet and the traditional sweetener is gula kabung, which you may substitute with gula melaka or even regular white sugar.

This recipe may be a bit conservative in terms of its sweetness level but you may add more to suit your taste.

If possible, charbroil the chicken over an open wood fire rather than roast in the oven.

The fragrance of chicken being slowly roasted over the flame will transport you to the Kelantan countryside.

Ayam percik is best eaten with nasi kerabu, another Kelantanese favourite.

Ayam percik panggang

Spice paste

1 chicken, about 2kg

3 red chillies

6 dried chillies, soaked in water and squeezed dry

10 shallot bulbs

5 garlic cloves

20g ginger

1 stalk lemongrass, sliced

20g fresh turmeric or 1 tsp turmeric powder

2 tbsp tamarind juice

½-1 tsp palm sugar to taste

½ tsp salt to taste

4 stalks lemongrass skewers

Baste paste

1½ cups coconut milk

½ tsp salt to taste

½-1 tsp palm sugar to taste

Method

To spatchcock the chicken, cut the chicken along both sides of the backbone with a pair of kitchen shears and remove the spine. Spread open the chicken and press down with your palms to break the breast bone.

Insert a boning knife into the thigh of the bird all the way through the breast and push in a stalk of lemongrass until it emerges out the other end.

Repeat with the other stalks of lemongrass in a criss-cross pattern and snip off the excess lengths of the lemongrass.

Blend all the spice paste ingredients into a fine paste.

Rub half to two-thirds of the spice paste on both sides of the flattened chicken and leave to marinate for 30 minutes.

Mix coconut milk with salt, palm sugar and remaining one-third to half of the spice paste in a saucepan and bring to a slow simmer until thickened.

Place chicken skin-side down on a rack over a roasting pan and roast for 30 minutes at 250°C.

Baste chicken with a thick layer of the thickened coconut milk, flip it and repeat the baste.

Then continue roasting for an additional 15 to 20 minutes until chicken is done.

Chicken is cooked if the juice runs clear when a skewer is pierced into the chicken thigh.

Allow chicken to rest for 10 minutes before serving with nasi kerabu.

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