Meat-free fare at festival food fair


Packets of good fortune: Hong Kong Street Tow Boh Keong committee member Eunise Gan arranging small packets of rice inside a miniature boat at the temple in Jalan Cheong Fatt Tze, George Town. Thousands of rice packets, believed to bring good luck, will be prepared for devotees. — LIM BENG TATT/The Star

50 stalls offer various dishes for devotees observing strict vegetarian diet

GEORGE TOWN: Going meat-free does not mean missing out, as visitors can tuck into vegetarian versions of their favourite foods at the Nine Emperor Gods Festival food fair.

Held in Lorong Madras, the fair offers a variety of dishes, from vegetarian bak kut teh and Hokkien mee to satay, burgers and pizza, with 50 stalls serving meat-free versions of popular local and Western favourites.

The 10-day fair, which began on Friday, is held in conjunction with the Nine Emperor Gods Festival, during which devotees observe a strict vegetarian diet.

Fair committee secretary Tan Kean Guan, 60, said the event had been held annually since 1993, drawing crowds of locals and visitors from abroad.

“Most hawkers are regulars. We get visitors from Indonesia and Europe, too,” said Kean Guan, who sells wantan mee for RM3 a plate from 7am to 10am.

Bank employee Bryan Tan, 33, a vegetarian, tucked into his favourite Hokkien mee before picking up a takeaway burger with fries.

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While dishes generally cost RM3 to RM4 more than on ordinary days, he said the annual food adventure was well worth the extra expenses.

“My friend, who is not vegetarian, bought green curry, ramen and Hokkien mee from Sungai Ara to share with me. We get to try vegetarian dishes from different places across Penang island,” he said.

Bryan said he rarely ate mock meat made from soy or wheat gluten but was happy to indulge in such dishes during the festival.

Beyond the food, the festival’s vegetarian tradition carries deep spiritual significance.

Traditional Nine Emperor Gods vegetarian fare generally excludes five pungent vegetables, collectively known as wu xin: garlic, onions, leeks, chives and shallots.

Strict devotees also use separate cooking utensils that have never come into contact with meat or seafood.

However, practices vary among temples, particularly regarding the use of dairy products, pungent vegetables and dedicated cooking utensils.

The Nine Emperor Gods Festival, which runs until Oct 18 this year, features nine days of prayers, rituals and processions, with devotees abstaining from meat as an act of spiritual cleansing and devotion.

The festival is widely celebrated in parts of Thailand and Singapore, while Penang is one of its major centres in Malaysia.

Other prominent centres of Nine Emperor Gods worship include Ampang in Selangor and Taiping in Perak.

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