Wrapped in a tasty new idea


Simple but effective: Lim preparing dough to make popiah skin to wrap around the kacang tumbuk he sells at his family’s stall in George Town, Penang. — CHAN BOON KAI/The Star

The secret behind an intact kacang tumbuk

GEORGE TOWN: Kacang tumbuk (sweet pounded peanuts) is a sweet treat, where the delicacy looks firm, but disintegrates at the first bite.

A number of hawkers, however, have laid claim to finding a solution to the “disintegration” problem. They wrap each kacang tumbuk in freshly-made popiah skin.

This small bit of food engineering reinforces the peanut block, letting customers bite into it without it breaking apart.

An added bonus is the bland popiah skin tamps down the sweetness, giving the tongue time to register the nutty umami or delicious savoury flavour of the pounded peanuts.

Gary Lim, 55, whose family has been making the snack for decades, said the popiah skin acted as a neutral “delivery system” for the sweet, crumbly peanuts, offering a palate reset with each bite.

“It is a traditional snack from decades ago, eaten especially when there were Teochew operas or shows in town.

“There are still a few others selling this. We make our own popiah skin and kacang tumbuk.

“Back then, people already wrapped it in popiah skin and even added spring onions to cut through the sweetness.

“We noticed its popularity ­slowly died down, but we wanted to keep the traditional snack around,” he said at the family’s shop in Jalan Chowrasta.

Lim said his family had made and sold popiah skin and yellow noodles for over 100 years, spanning three generations.

“We later ventured into other snacks, including this one. The wrapping process is similar to ­making popiah, you roll and tuck in the skin around kacang ­tumbuk.

“This must be eaten within 30 minutes as the popiah skin will turn soft and limp, and it will not be as nice,” he said, adding that they sell only individual pieces meant to be eaten immediately.

Lim, who runs the shop with his wife, sister and brother-in-law, said he encouraged customers to eat it on the spot, often drawing a small crowd.

“People like that it is less sweet with the popiah skin. They enjoy the slightly stretchy skin with the crumbly peanut filling.

“Many come back for another piece before leaving,” he said.

Lim said some still found the peanut filling sweet, so the shop offered a sweet-and-salty version of kacang tumbuk.

“It is popular with those who want a bit of salt in the bite,” he said.

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