GEORGE TOWN: Certain taboos must be strictly observed when crafting the revered nian gao, also known as thnee kuih in Hokkien, for Chinese New Year.
It is imperative to refrain from engaging in bickering or uttering phrases such as “it won’t turn out well” or “is it ready yet?” during the meticulous cooking process.
Negative expressions or predicting unfavourable outcomes like a failure to achieve the golden hue, can disrupt the harmonious transformation of the thnee kuih.
It is also believed that women experiencing their menstrual period should abstain from participating in the preparation, as it is thought to influence the colour and texture, preventing the thnee kuih from attaining its desired perfection.
For over a quarter of a century, 70-year-old Ooi Kooi Shee, has been making thnee kuih and she “more or less” observes the taboo.
“The adherence to these taboos is a deeply ingrained tradition, faithfully followed by my mother and grandmother.
“While I refrain from uttering such phrases directly in front of the steamer, I find myself more lenient when it is out of earshot,” she said.
Labour of love: Ooi (right) and her daughter, Lien Li Hoong, 42, inspecting the thnee kuih for her customers at her home in Bukit Jambul, Penang. — CHAN BOON KAI/The Star
Ooi’s creates this delectable treat for her customers to sweeten the mouth of Zhao Jun, the Kitchen God, and avert any unfavourable reports about the household to the Jade Emperor on the 24th of the twelfth lunar month which falls on Feb 3.
With each carefully prepared batch, she weaves a tapestry of tradition, infusing her creation, which was taught to her by her mother, with the sweet essence of goodwill to ensure prosperity and harmony for her customers.
“I was only nine when I picked up the skill as my task was to knead the dough. I was the eldest of nine siblings and as time went by I slowly mastered the art of making thnee kuih.
“My mum would wake me up at 5am to help prepare the dough. I was very keen to learn then. Now, I’ve continued with the tradition and made this delicacy for offering during the sending-off of the Kitchen God.
“My thnee kuih is made from scratch as I will mill the glutinous rice into flour myself while my son-in-law will then knead the dough into the right consistency to be steamed for more than 20 hours.
“This becomes a family undertaking, involving my husband and daughter. They contribute by lining the mould with banana leaves, while my responsibility is to ensure it cooks properly and comes out just right,” she said when met at her home in Bukit Jambul on Friday.
Ooi said she is able to make between 150 to 200 thnee kuih in five sizes daily, adding that for the first time this year, her son-in-law will make weekly deliveries of the delicacy to Kuala Lumpur after taking orders online.
“I started making this delicacy on Jan 10 and will be kept busy until Jan 27.
“I will like to keep making thnee kuih as long as I am able but I’m getting old but I’m glad to say that I managed to pass all my skills to my daughter.”
