Madurai-style ‘jigarthanda’ drink winning fans in George Town


Yasmin making the Jigar­thanda Sarbat Original at her stall on Lebuh Queen in Little India, George Town.

A TRADITIONAL cooling drink from southern India has found a place in Penang’s multicultural food scene.

The milk-based jigarthanda which originates from Madurai, India, is winning over customers across communities in George Town’s Little India.

It is served at a modest stall in Lebuh Queen, run by 46-year-old Yasmin Yuki who is carrying on the family business.

“My grandfather founded Dawood Restaurant. My father later took over.

“After the restaurant closed around 2000, we started operating from this stall.

TRY TO USEFrom left: Yasmin's Jigarthanda Sarbat Original, the refreshing Nannari Limau and a decadent version of the Jigarthanda topped with ice cream.
TRY TO USEFrom left: Yasmin's Jigarthanda Sarbat Original, the refreshing Nannari Limau and a decadent version of the Jigarthanda topped with ice cream.

“I took over in 2013. We had two workers from India then and they introduced jigarthanda to our menu.”

Now assisted by her 21-year-old son, Yasmin said, “I believe we’re the only stall here serving authentic Madurai-style jigarthanda.”

Her jigarthanda sarbat is made of full cream milk and nannari (Indian sarsaparilla root) syrup and contains sabja (basil seeds), pieces of jelly and badam pisin (almond gum).

The stall offers about 20 types of beverages priced from RM5 to RM9, including various nannari drinks served plain or with milk and ice-cream.

“The nannari syrup recipe came from my grandmother in Tamil Nadu, and we still make it the same way, so the taste is authentic.

“Most of our customers are Indian Muslim. During Ramadan, many come for the jigarthanda because it is refreshing and helps replenish the body after a day of fasting.

“But over the years, more Chinese, Malays and tourists are giving it a try and many return after their first taste.

“We’re preserving a drink from our hometown and introducing it to more people in Penang,” she said proudly.

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