Buttery boat-shaped bites

Belonging to a class of old-fashioned festive treats, biskut sampan or biskut perahu − literally “boat biscuits” − are becoming increasingly rare.

Once a familiar sight on Hari Raya cookie trays, these delicate pastries now appear only occasionally, usually made by home bakers who have inherited both the moulds and the patience required to produce them.

Each biscuit is essentially a miniature shortcrust shell, pressed into tiny boat-shaped moulds no larger than an index finger, then filled with a buttery coconut mixture before being baked until crisp and golden.

The result is a bite-sized confection that is as visually charming as it is rich and fragrant, with a tender shell that shatters gently at first bite.

The biscuit’s scarcity is easy to understand.

It is painstakingly fiddly to make, requiring dexterity, time and a specialised mould that is no longer widely available.

These can usually be found in speciality baking shops or sourced online, which makes them something of a collector’s item among traditional cookie enthusiasts.

Dainty little ‘biskut sampan’ or ‘biskut perahu’.— Photos: AZLINA ABDULLAH/The Star

For this recipe, I had to borrow a set of moulds from a colleague – a heartfelt thank you to Syazwana Amir for introducing me to this delightful treat and trusting me with her newly purchased moulds.

Recipes vary widely.

Some versions use a rich egg-based pastry, while others, a simpler shortbread dough made with margarine.

Fillings may include fresh grated coconut, condensed milk or chopped nuts.

As with many heritage bakes, there is no single definitive formula – only family preferences refined over generations.

I favour an all-butter crust for its superior flavour and delicate crumb.

For the filling, I prefer desicca­ted coconut without condensed milk, which keeps the filling light, aromatic and pleasantly crumbly rather than sticky.

If you are expecting young visitors this Raya, biskut sampan can be a wonderful group baking project.

Ingredients include coconut filling, chopped glace cherries and nuts.

Biskut Sampan (Boat Biscuits)

Pastry dough

500g all-purpose flour

100g icing sugar

250g unsalted butter, softened

1 egg

30g milk powder

1 tsp vanilla essence

Filling

120g butter, softened

30g icing sugar

150g desiccated coconut

½ tsp salt

50g almond nibs, toasted

30g red or green glace cherries, finely chopped

Directions

Cream the butter with the icing sugar until fluffy, then stir in desiccated coconut, salt, toasted almonds and cherries until evenly mixed.

Cream the butter and icing sugar until smooth and well blended.

Add the egg and vanilla essence, mixing until fully incorporated.

Gradually add the milk powder and flour, mixing until a soft, pliable dough forms. Do not overwork it.

For the filling, cream the butter and icing sugar together until combined.

Combine butter, icing sugar, egg, vanilla, milk powder and flour and gently knead into a soft dough.

Stir in the desiccated coconut, salt, almonds and cherries until evenly mixed.

Take about 2 teaspoons of dough and press it firmly into a sampan mould.

Use the base of a second mould to press a cavity into the centre, forming a neat shell.

Carefully remove the top mould and trim any excess dough flush with the edges.

Fill each cavity with about 1 teaspoon of the coconut filling.

Press dough into the mould and insert another mould to make an cavity that can be filled with the coconut filling.

Arrange on a baking tray and bake in a preheated oven at 180°C for 15-20 minutes, or until lightly golden and crisp.

Lift the biscuits from the mould to allow them to cool.

Then continue shaping, filling and baking the remaining pastry dough.

Keep in airtight containers for up to two weeks.