One can spend hours exploring the vast historical complex. — Photos: GISELE SOO/The Star
The Ojukheon House in Gangwon, South Korea was the ancestral home of painter and calligraphist Shin Saimdang, and her son, Yulgok Yi I, who was a Confucian scholar.
Because of their contributions to the kingdom and community, they are considered prominent figures in Korean history, and are even featured on the KRW50,000 (Saimdang) and KRW5,000 (Yulgok) banknotes.
Ojukheon was built during the early days of the Joseon dynasty and is today considered one of the oldest surviving homes of the period. In 1963, the house complex was designated as a “national treasure” for its historical value. This led to it becoming a tourist attraction, initially just among the locals and now, among international visitors.
If you go, get a local guide who can expertly tell you stories of Ojukheon, of the other families that used to live there and of the Joseon period, too.
Within the complex, you will find the Ojuk Hanok Village. This is where most of the tourists go to once they are done learning about the history of Ojukheon. At the village, you can find services that allow you to rent a hanbok (traditional Korean costume) and wear it while checking out the rest of the place.
These days, most people rent the hanbok so that they can take unique pictures and videos in the area.
The household complex also features a shrine called the Munseongsa, the sarangchae (men’s quarters), Eojaegak Pavilion, Yulgok Memorial Hall, and Gangneung Municipal Museum. Since 1961, the city of Gangneung has held a memorial ceremony at Yulgok Memorial Hall every Oct 25 and 26.
The trees
Ojukheon means the “House Of Black Bamboo”, and rightly so, as this historical complex is nestled among thriving bamboo plants and surrounded by blooming gardens.
We had the opportunity to visit the house during a media trip to Gangwon, where our guide, Cindy Minju, said that dark or black bamboo trees were precious and rare.
“According to folklore, black bamboo is associated with a sacred status and is held in high esteem in Korean culture,” Minju explained.
Besides the bamboo trees, there is an old plum tree planted at the site as well. The Vulgongmae Plum of Ojukheon House has been around since 1440. Unfortunately, part of the plum tree didn’t survive a particularly harsh winter a few years back.
Miraculously, though, the other half still blooms during spring time.
The Ojukheon House is also home to a “ticklish tree” – probably the most peculiar tree you will ever see in Korea. The Saimdang Crape Myrtle, located just opposite the plum tree, is said to be a guardian tree protecting the house.
Ask your guide to show you how the tree responds to your touch. “Stroke the tree lightly, and the branches will vibrate as if the wind is blowing it,” Minju said, adding that the tree is about six centuries old.
Visitors can check out the “mongryongsil”, or the room where Yulgok was born. You can find out more about the place at the Gangneung Municipal Museum.
A mother-son story
During our tour we learned a lot about Saimdang and her son. For example, Saimdang may have been a renowned painter, but she still faced many challenges during her time. “Artists were frowned upon and considered rather low class, even though the ‘profession’ was admired greatly by the noble class,” Minju said.
Back then, she continued, scholars would go to great lengths to learn the art of calligraphy, poetry and, of course, painting. However, to make a career out of it was near impossible. “People who relied on art for a living didn’t stand much of a chance those days,” Minju said.
Saimdang, however, defied the norm and faced the challenges head on. She continued to pursue her passion for the arts until her final days.
Saimdang had seven children; Yulgok was the eldest. In later years, she became known as a “model mother”, having nurtured her children into being noble folk.
“She was the first female figure ever to be featured on a Korean banknote, and a representation of a ‘strong and wise’ mother in Korea,” Minju shared. As for Yulgok, although he is historically known as a scholar, he actually dabbled in politics and held many positions in the government in his late 20s. His vast knowledge earned the confidence of the ruler.
By age 40, Yulgok landed various ministerial positions – making him a respected figure within the political sphere.
As a Confucian scholar, Yulgok published many books and journals on the topic.
Unfortunately, he died at the age of 49. According to Minju, many men back then did not live past the age of 50.
“Men in those days spent a lot of time studying, with little to no time to spare for exercise. This made them vulnerable to health issues.”