Meeting the Big 5: Lion, elephant, leopard, rhinoceros, Cape buffalo


One of the lionesses that the writer and her travel friends 'bumped' into. — Photos: TAN AI KEAT

After three frustrating years, a self-guided trip to South Africa finally materialised for our group of eight travellers. Our trip screeched to a halt just two months prior to departure when the movement control order and subsequent travel bans were imposed in 2020.

Then, the flurry of amendments to bookings for flights, hotels and car rentals began. Refunds were negotiated and losses incurred, too, as a few establishments were no longer operating.

We embarked on our amazing journey in late April. Upon arrival at Johannesburg, South Africa we collected our rented cars and drove to 44 Stanley (a mixed development township) for lunch, shopping and tea.

We continued our journey after that, but had to make a detour to search for a toilet. This was kind of a blessing in disguise as the rest area had a magnificent view of a waterhole, where we had our first wildlife sighting of impala, zebras and Cape buffaloes.

In the evening, we had dinner at Nelson Mandela Square.

The next day, we took a five-hour drive to our homestay at Graskop. Fortunately, the long drive was punctuated with stops for some delicious pancakes, avocado and macadamia shopping and for a sumptuous seafood lunch.

After Graskop, we then made our way the the game reserve for the safari, the highlight of our trip. We were ready to see the “Big 5” (elephants, lions, leopard, rhinoceros, Cape buffalo)!

Before checking in at the reserve, though, we visited Blyde River Canyon/Bourke’s Luck Potholes to see its gorgeous canyons and rock formations.

A pleasant surprise awaited us at our game reserve lodge. We had the whole lodge to ourselves – there was only one other room that was empty. The accommodation, facilities, food and service at the reserve were superb. Daily meals were served at various venues throughout the lodge for different ambience and experiences.

After some rest and a light lunch, it was time for the night safari. We were apprehensive when we saw the gigantic open-top jeep but climbed onto it all the same, armed with our cameras and thumping hearts. Our safari guide did a humorous introduction and a reminder of what not to do during the drive before we started our awesome wildlife experience.

As we bounced and swayed in the jeep, we hunted and scouted for wildlife. Our guide, as well as the tracker were phenomenal. With their years of experience, they were able to spot the tiniest reptile or wildlife hidden in the thickets, in the dark.

We checked four out of the Big 5 on our first day. Through two sunsets, two sunrises and four safari drives, we managed to see, among others, wild elephants (one almost chased after us!), leopard, a pride of lionesses with their cubs, lions, rhinoceroses (both black and white), giraffes, wild boar, hippopotamus, wild dogs and different species of deer and birds.

We saw elephants trumpeting while fighting for milk, and a majestic lion crunching on its kill, grunting menacingly. A lioness chose to lie down in front of our jeep, while a lion sauntered right pass the vehicle without even looking at us.

The Cape buffalo remained elusive except for the brief sighting at the rest area.

A lioness and her cubs at the game reserve.— Photos: TAN AI KEATA lioness and her cubs at the game reserve.— Photos: TAN AI KEAT

During the evening safaris, we were allowed to get down from the jeep and were treated to drinks and snacks. It was pitch dark around us apart from just one spotlight from the jeep. Up above, we could see thousands of stars. It was breathtakingly beautiful.

After the unforgettable safari experience, it was time to bid farewell to the wild. We drove back to Johannesburg to catch a domestic flight to Cape Town. From Cape Town airport, we drove straight to Hermanus, a tranquil seaside town south-west of Cape Town. Our trip was less hectic as we enjoyed a slower pace of activities. Slow strolls along the coastline at Cliff Path, relaxed lunches, tea and dinners and visited the local markets.

While we took the scenic route to Hermanus, we decide to take the coastal route for our drive back to Cape Town. We made many stops just for the spectacular ocean views.

Back at Cape Town, we activated our City Pass – which allows tourists to visit places of attractions in the city either for free or at discounted rates – and enjoyed free entrances to Table Mountain, The Cape of Good Hope, The Boulders Penguin Colony and others. We also visited Bo Kaap, which is famous for its multi-coloured houses.

To cap our amazing holiday, we went on a beautiful sunset cruise and saw some adorable seals at the pier.

South Africa, as well as the safari should be on more people’s bucket lists as they are truly worthy experiences. After all, how many can boast of being stuck between two lionesses and survived to talk about it?

The views expressed are entirely the reader’s own.

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