If 2020 was a time of change, then the current year will probably see a return of normalcy – or at least, as close to it as we can expect. In watchmaking, this simply means going back to the celebration of impressive horological art.
The Watches & Wonders international trade show (held this month on a full digital platform) presented a whole range of gorgeous timepieces. They range from new innovations to updates of familiar classics we know and love.
All the watch brands rallied and they are now coming back stronger than ever. In the face of a pandemic, the industry simply adapted the best and smartest way it could. There is no stopping time, after all.
As industry insiders and the media could not make their way to Switzerland for the event, it saw the watches go to them instead. Online presentations opened up the world once again to the marvels of horology.
Rolex, participating in Watches & Wonders for the very first time, is intent on going on an adventure. Be it geographical, technical or aesthetic, the luxury watchmaker is embarking on an intrepid journey.
New Rolex releases take a person from the deepest caves to the highest mountain peaks, from the outer reaches of the solar system to isolated polar regions, and from ultra-precise technology to exacting artisanal craftsmanship.
Each one of the creations is stunning in itself, but more than that, they represent the resilient spirit of watchmaking and its industry. The ultimate aim? To explore new heights and push boundaries.
Beauty in the details
For Rolex it is all about its heritage. Not surprising, as its history as a watchmaker dates back all the way to 1905. That is more than 100 years of plying the trade – which is a major feat, for sure.
Looking at 2021, Rolex has turned its focus to producing a wide selection of impressive timepieces. They run the gamut of being precise and innovative to incredibly glamorous.
Take for instance the Explorer. This watch was created in collaboration with mountaineers, whereby the Himalayas were the setting for their real-life laboratory – in particular the highest peak, Mount Everest.
The Explorer has seen many evolutions, each time becoming more robust and easier to read. It has adapted to the most extreme environments, where time management is often key to survival.
Its heir of sorts, the Explorer II was presented in 1971. Thanks to its 24-hour display comprising an additional, orange hour hand and an engraved bezel, this watch allows the wearer to clearly distinguish daytime from night-time hours.
The new-generation Explorer and Explorer II are thus emblematic of Rolex’s perpetual drive to improve. Without sacrificing performance – one of the range’s essential requirements – the watches are also elegant.
This year, the Oyster Perpetual Explorer is available in a yellow Rolesor version. Combining Oystersteel and 18ct gold, Rolesor is the watchmaker’s signature style that seamlessly blends strength and elegance.
Oystersteel, a unique alloy with both strength and clarity, remains a key element of other models. It is part of what makes the current Oyster Perpetual Explorer II an essential instrument for every adventurer, as well.
Stunning designs
Performance aside, the look of every watch is just as important. And when it comes to the aesthetic, the most noticeable thing is perhaps a watch’s dial. This is something everyone immediately sees upon checking the time.
Watch dials shine with spirit and vitality, springing to life as light falls across their surface. But it is not only light that brings out the character in the new dials, they can come alive with other aspects and elements.
Olive green, silver or golden, these come made from age-old materials such as copper, zinc, nickel, chromium, titanium and silicon, combined with cutting-edge technology to create deep, vibrant metallic colours.
The new versions of the Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona, on the other hand, carry meteorite dials. This material displays patterns that were formed as the heart of an asteroid cooled slowly on its journey through the cosmos.
Rolex reportedly selects metallic meteorite according to very strict aesthetic criteria. Each fragment has a unique internal structure, making every Cosmograph Daytona with a meteorite dial truly one of a kind.
Meteorite is not the only precious material used by Rolex though. Diamonds are also used to decorate the different watches. These precious stones embellish both the new Day-Date 36 and Lady-Datejust.
The designs require both a gemmologist and gemsetter to work in harmony. Involving precise work, one selects the stones and the other sets them one by one into the dial, bezel, case or bracelet.
Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 is now reimagined in swathes of diamonds. Hour markers and alligator leather straps in matching colours further help the new model to stand out among the crowd.
Finally, you have the Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust. It is set with 1,089 diamonds on the middle case, bezel, dial and bracelet. The brilliance and sparkle makes the watch extremely hard to miss.
What makes them tick
All of the latest releases adhere to Rolex’s commitment for quality. Movements of the Oyster Perpetual watches for example, are scrutinised by the COSC – an institute responsible for certifying the accuracy and precision of Swiss watches.
The timepieces are also tested in-house for their precision, performance and reliability. A Superlative Chronometer certification, confirms that each watch has successfully undergone tests conducted by Rolex in its own laboratories.
There is more to the name of a Rolex watch than what one would expect too. The word “perpetual” is inscribed on every Oyster watch – but more than just a word on a dial, it is a philosophy detailing the watchmaker’s vision and values.
Founder Hans Wilsdorf instilled a notion of perpetual excellence that would drive the company forward. This led Rolex to pioneer the development of the wristwatch and numerous major watchmaking innovations.
The Oyster, the first waterproof wristwatch, has a long history dating back to 1926 when it was first launched. The Perpetual rotor self-winding mechanism, on the other hand, was invented in 1931.
Wilsdorf’s foresight also led him to promptly establish a network of dedicated after-sales service workshops in the countries where the brand was present. It allowed him to guarantee that each watch could receive the best possible servicing.
Today, Rolex stands by its word with the World Service workshops. They perform various types of procedures in adherence to standards, thereby guaranteeing the performance of the brand’s watches over time.
The workshops offer different types of servicing operations. A full service, for instance, involves the complete overhaul of the watch movement, case and bracelet, while specific minor operations are also available.
For timepieces that have an exceptional historic value, there is the Restoration Atelier. Here, the Rolex master watchmakers combine on a daily basis in-depth historical research with traditional methods and state-of-the-art techniques.
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