Batik as a textile has undergone a renaissance of sorts, especially with the revived interest in all things fashionably artisanal. It is no longer viewed as fussy and overtly traditional – even by the younger generation.
Tino Soon, a well-recognised veteran in the Malaysian style industry, has also “rediscovered” his love for batik. He is seen recently posting regular live videos on Facebook to talk about his passion.
While this started over the movement control order period, Soon says that it was not the result of boredom at home. According to him, he has always loved batik. The lockdown merely freed up more of his time.
“In my videos, I just talk about batik. Simple as that. I do it in episodes. The first was about introducing batik to people. The history, for example. Or the different processes of producing batik, ” he explains.
“Early on, I was nervous. I did get a number of viewers tuning in, but I think they were just curious about what I was doing. Later, my videos began generating feedback. I’ve received private messages from people interested about learning more.
”The way Soon embraced technology for his Facebook streams (every Sunday, 1pm), although still modest in following, is impressive. At 66 years of age, he has proven that no one is ever too old to challenge themselves or try something new.
As for the love of batik, it comes from his parentage. He is of Peranakan descent. While now living in Kuala Lumpur, he was born and raised in Terrenganu – a state steeped in heritage when it comes to the textile.
Before the pandemic hit, Soon was travelling frequently to Indonesia to source for batik. During those trips, he bought a wide range of different pieces – both for his personal collection and the products that he creates and sells.
On his excursions, he has made contact with the various workshops and manufacturers of batik there. He believes that having the opportunity to learn more about batik is always an eye-opening experience.
He however, says that he is connected to the people in the local batik scene too. For instance, the industry in Terrenganu, where he comes from.
Beauty in all its forms
Soon says that he does not view batik from a specific geographical viewpoint. Many countries have batik making traditions, and Soon says we should not let disputes on origin divide us. The beauty of batik should unite us all instead.
Earlier this month, a battle raged on social media after a video clip posted by China’s Xinhua News Agency described batik as a traditional craft practised by ethnic minorities in the provinces of Guizhou and Yunan in southwestern China.
The clip received a barrage of disapproval from Indonesians. It shines a spotlight on the long-standing battle between countries clamouring to claim batik as their own.
“It’s largely a regional thing. It’s an art form. Some of the motifs that appear in batik have a history of hundreds of years, ” Soon points out, regarding why it can be difficult to track ownership.
Soon does not see himself as a purist. He truly believes that all batik can be beautiful, no matter where a particular piece is produced – or whether it is traditional or more contemporary in design.
In fact, he uses any batik that he thinks will sell well. He currently designs a collection for Sogo that comprises not only ready-to-wear, but lifestyle items like mats and bags. It is sold under the label of Colony Of Colours.
“I love the significance of batik. That’s it. I don’t think about where it originates. Coming from a Peranakan family, it is something I’m familiar with. Maybe that’s why I’m able to appreciate the nuances of its beauty.”
Soon recognises the charm of contemporary batik too. Unlike someone who’s more traditional-minded, he does not see the problem in “modernising” batik. He says that if someone follows the right technique (waxing and dyeing), then any batik is beautiful.
“This is modern, ” Soon notes, pointing to a Japanese batik cloth he owns. “It’s popular among the young generation. You can even say that a lot of people find something like this appealing. I have no problems with it.”
He adds: “As long as you don’t let the technique die. As long as you let the people who are working in the industry make a living. I don’t see the big deal with it. Even if I don’t like a specific batik cloth, that’s more down to personal aesthetic preference.”
Wow! Batik shop at #pekalongan #java #batikchop #batikcombinasi for the #massmarket #art #sustainability #batikjawa . A post shared by Tino Soon (@tinosoon) on Mar 3, 2020 at 7:06am PST
Drawing from experience
In the local fashion industry, Soon is known first for his work with Mun Loong department store (now closed) in the 1990s. He was the merchandising manager, and those were early heady days of designing fashionable clothes for the mass market.
In 1995 Soon left and continued to offer creative advice on a freelance basis, creating fashion lines for department stores in the region.
Shortly after, in 1999, he co-founded womens’ ready-to-wear brand Salabianca with the late Allan Chan. Salabianca, which dazzled with hand-beaded and embellished pieces, was one of the first homegrown fashion labels and more successful local brands.
This success then led to the creation of a men’s line, Philosophy. Both labels were in the market for 10 years until the entry of fast fashion, which led to their demise.
Read more: Dynamic duo Malaysian of fashion, Allan Chan and Tino Soon, strikes again
Today, expanding on his passion for batik, Soon is planning to produce his own batik textiles – as in having a hand in designing and getting specific motifs produced in his vision. But, he says he has no plans in starting his own batik boutique.
“Looking at the retail situation now, frankly, I’m scared, ” he points out. “At the moment, I’m taking custom-made orders for batik wear. I’ve also received orders for batik face masks after starting my live streams.”
He admits that designing with batik is a lot more complicated than it seems. The large (and often standout) motifs require careful thinking in terms of their placement on a shirt, for example.
“When I started my live streams, the intention wasn’t to sell. It was purely educational. I just wanted to share my knowledge on batik, because I think there’s a lot about batik that people don’t know.”
He is currently at his seventh episode. The plan is for 10 episodes, but he may continue with more videos in the months ahead. The number of viewers tuning in to his streams has grown past 1,000.
Soon says a lot of work still needs to be done to really revive interest in this gorgeous and unique textile – beyond one man posting videos on Facebook.
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