Renowned French chef Daniel Boulud on why French cuisine now crosses borders


In the culinary world, formidable French chef Daniel Boulud is something of an institution. Having built his name through a career spanning decades, Boulud has also been instrumental in making French cuisine both relatable and accessible across the world. — Photos: HANDOUT

In the culinary world, formidable French chef Daniel Boulud is something of an institution. Having built his name through a career spanning decades, Boulud has also been instrumental in making French cuisine both relatable and accessible across the world.

Born and raised on a farm near Lyon in France, Boulud trained in culinary arts and worked with chefs like Georges Blanc and Roger Verde, before eventually moving to New York, where he opened his eponymous restaurant Daniel in 1993. The restaurant still holds two Michelin stars.

Boulud’s television shows like After Hours with Daniel Boulud and appearances on Top Chef Canada introduced him to a whole new segment of worldwide viewers.

But it is his restaurants around the world - most notably in Singapore and Dubai - that have given him an international sheen, although he says it is French cuisine itself that has evolved, while still remaining rooted to tradition.

Boulud is a highly-respected Michelin-starred French chef who has made a name for himself internationally.Boulud is a highly-respected Michelin-starred French chef who has made a name for himself internationally.

“I think tradition is very important to French cuisine, but that does not mean the cuisine has not evolved. There are merging roads of classic application; sometimes it can feel like French cuisine, but it can also feel different from French cuisine.

“French cuisine has many different ways of expressing itself, and the adaptability is what makes it more accessible. We’re able to get inspired by other culinary cultures, but stay grounded in French techniques and culinary philosophies, such as the focus on seasonal ingredients.

“There are also many chefs from all over the world who are practising French cuisine, and what they are showcasing is an amalgamation of trends, different cultures and the evolution of French cooking. All these things come together to make French cuisine more international,” he says in an email interview.

Maison Boulud is Boulud's new restaurant in Singapore that opened in February this year. — HANDOUTMaison Boulud is Boulud's new restaurant in Singapore that opened in February this year. — HANDOUT

This February, Boulud opened Maison Boulud in Singapore’s Marina Bay Sands; the eatery takes over the space formerly occupied by db Bistro and Oyster Bar, his original flagship restaurant in Singapore.

The food at Maison Boulud is billed as “a soulful interpretation of classic French cuisine” and even pays homage to local favourites, according to Boulud.

“I think it’s nice when we have dishes inspired by authentic, local flavours. My executive chef at Maison Boulud Singapore, Remy Carmignani has been in Singapore a long time, and he was inspired by the flavours of the black pepper chilli crab which we reinterpreted to a Mediterranean-style claypot rice with confit Chilean seabass in a black pepper squid ink sauce. We’ve gotten great response with it, and it’s a great balance of French techniques and familiar, local flavours,” he says.

The black pepper seabass at the restaurant is an ode to Singapore's black pepper chilli crab dish. — HANDOUTThe black pepper seabass at the restaurant is an ode to Singapore's black pepper chilli crab dish. — HANDOUT

Although Singapore is currently his only outpost in South-East Asia, Boulud does not rule out the possibility of expanding to other countries, including Malaysia.

“We’d love to! Malaysia, Japan and Hong Kong are all markets we’re keen to have a presence in,” he says.

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