Malaysian Bajau woman preserves kuih makmur tradition

Faridah (left) and Farah making kuih makmur cookies for the festive season. Photos: The Star/Muhamad Shahril Rosli

Faridah Maunda can’t wait to board her flight to Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, this afternoon. It’s been four years since she last celebrated Hari Raya with her family in Kota Belud, Sabah, and the Petaling Jaya-based Sabahan is excited to reconnect with her loved ones in her hometown.

“I couldn’t travel to Sabah in 2020 until 2021 during the Covid-19 movement control order. Last year, flight tickets were too expensive, and we couldn’t afford to fly back. So this year, we booked our flights in advance to avoid disappointment.

“Finally, my family and I can make it back to Kota Belud for Hari Raya. It will be a fun experience for everyone, especially as we can savour delicious Sabahan Raya dishes and cookies,” says Faridah, 51, during an interview in Sungai Way, Petaling Jaya.

In her hand-carry bag, the home-based baker has prepared bottles of kuih makmur, a traditional cookie made from ghee and flour filled with crushed peanuts.

Faridah says the practice of visiting friends and family members during Raya is a symbol of unity and harmony.

The recipe has been in her family for generations.

“For as long as I can remember, we’ve made kuih makmur for Hari Raya. My mother used to make it, and I learned it from my grandmother.”

The Bajau woman’s kuih makmur is a treat well-loved by her family and friends, and she takes great pride in sharing her delicious biscuits with them. She says that making kuih makmur is not just a labour of love but also a way of keeping her Sabah heritage alive.

“By making kuih makmur, I am reminded of my childhood and the wonderful memories I have growing up in Sabah. It’s a way for me to reconnect with my Bajau roots,” explains the mother of three.

The first step in making kuih makmur is to prepare the dough, which is made by mixing wheat flour, butter and icing sugar. The dough is then kneaded until it becomes soft and pliable. The next step is to shape the dough into small balls and make an indentation in the centre of each ball.

Her only daughter Farah Aisyah Kamal Ariffin, 12, helps her to prepare the cookies.

The filling, made using ground peanuts and sugar, is then added to the indentation in the dough, which is then carefully sealed before the pastry is shaped into a round ball. It is then baked until golden brown.

Faridah loves to bake cookies for loved ones.

“After baking, it is cooled down and dusted with icing sugar. Although it may seem like a simple recipe, the process of making this traditional cookie requires precision and patience to achieve the perfect balance of flavours and textures,” Faridah explains.

For this Hari Raya, Faridah received many orders for her home-baked biscuits, including red velvet cookies, kuih bangkit (cheese flavour) and London almond cookies.

However, she notices that the demand for classic treats like kuih makmur, peanut cookies and kuih semperit has dwindled over the years.

“With their vibrant colours, unique flavours and attractive packaging, trendier cookies have caught the younger generation’s attention. Traditional cookies are deemed too plain and unexciting.”

Kuih semperit is one of the many traditional Hari Raya cookies that Faridah cherishes.

Still, Faridah insists on teaching Farah how to make them. She hopes her daughter will grow to appreciate and value the customs of her ancestors.

“While traditional cookies may not be popular, I continue to make them because they are part of my childhood memories. I believe it is important to pass on the culinary heritage to my daughter.”

This Raya, Faridah especially looks forward to reuniting with loved ones and bonding over traditional Sabahan Hari Raya dishes. They include beef rendang, ketupat and chicken sambal. She is also hoping to eat one of her favourite dishes, bihun rojak, which is essentially rice noodles eaten with peanut sauce.

She also can’t wait to savour traditional cookies like crunchy kuih cincin (baked ring biscuit) and kuih bahulu, a spongy egg cake.

While the festivities often involve lavish meals and colourful decorations, the true essence of Hari Raya lies in the tradition of families gathering together, says Faridah.

“For many, Hari Raya is a time to put aside differences and reunite with loved ones. It is a time to express gratitude, and strengthen familial bonds.

“The practice of visiting friends and family members during this holiday is a symbol of unity and harmony, highlighting the importance of community and social connections.”