Zeti (right) with her late mother Azah, who was deeply passionate about Malay culture and textile heritage. Photo: Soraya Talisman
To honour and preserve the lifelong work of her late mother, cultural custodian Azah Aziz (1928–2012), former Bank Negara governor Tan Sri Dr Zeti Akhtar Aziz recently launched the book Malay Textiles And Costumes: Form And Style.
The book, an English edition of Azah's Rupa Dan Gaya: Busana Melayu, was launched recently at Sasana Kijang, Bank Negara Malaysia in Kuala Lumpur, in an event hosted by Tita Publications in collaboration with Penerbit UKM, Universiti Kebangsaan Malaysia.
The launch also included the third edition of the original Rupa Dan Gaya', reinforcing its importance in Malay textile literature.
Originally published in 2006, Rupa Dan Gaya was the magnum opus of Azah, a journalist, scholar and cultural historian who dedicated her life to the study of Malay textiles and literature.
Her work documented the aesthetic, historical, and social dimensions of Malay clothing traditions, serving as a vital reference for designers, educators, and heritage preservationists. Azah, whose full name is Sharifah Azah Mohamed Alsagoff, was the wife of Royal Professor Ungku Abdul Aziz Ungku Abdul Hamid (1922-2020).
Threads that bind
Through this book, Azah illuminated the intricate craftsmanship of Malay attire, from the delicate tenun fabrics to the symbolic baju kurung and baju melayu, highlighting the deep cultural meanings embedded within each thread.
“Through Rupa Dan Gaya, my mother ignited a commitment to cultural preservation in so many individuals,” said Zeti during her opening address at the book launch.
“Her meticulous research and love for Malay traditions have helped pave the way for future generations to appreciate and uphold our cultural heritage,” she added.
Since 2014, Zeti has led the effort to translate her mother’s groundbreaking work into English. This translation, a labour of love and dedication, allows Azah's invaluable research to reach a wider audience.
“Rupa Dan Gaya: Busana Melayu represents the culmination of her lifetime work on this heritage of the Malay civilisation that has transcended generations.
"It discusses the role of cultural values, customs and historical developments in the evolution of Malay textiles and costumes. Elegantly brought forth in her writing are numerous extracts from old Malay manuscripts and classical literature, including poetry as well as sayings and expressions that mention aspects of textiles and costumes,” says Zeti.
Azah’s research, rich in cultural and academic significance, now reaches a global audience through this translation.
"One of the biggest challenges was terms like telepuk, which has no direct English equivalent. In the end, we settled on 'gilded' as it refers to a patterned textile with metallic elements," said Zeti.
"To aid international readers in understanding Malay textile terminology, a special glossary has been included in the book," she added.
The English edition, according to Zeti, aims to serve as an essential resource for scholars, curators, and textile enthusiasts worldwide, preserving the authenticity and nuances of Malay cultural heritage.
A glimpse into the future
Adding to this cultural milestone, the book launch was also accompanied with a preview of the highly anticipated Merdeka Textile Museum at Merdeka 118 in Kuala Lumpur.
The new museum, set to be the first state-of-the-art textile museum in Asia, will house 240 pieces of textiles and costumes, along with 69 pieces of jewellery once owned by Azah. Her cultural observations and writings will also help shape the museum's curatorial direction.
These items will be displayed using the best of today's technology, including interactive media, motion sensors, and intelligent lighting, offering an immersive and dynamic experience for visitors.
“More than just a museum, the Merdeka Textile Museum will be a living tribute to the late Puan Azah Aziz, whose lifelong dedication to preserving Malay traditions resonates deeply in this endeavour,” said Raja Tan Sri Arshad Raja Tun Uda, group chairman of Permodalan Nasional Berhad (PNB), the institution spearheading the project.
The Merdeka Textile Museum, located within The Look at the Merdeka 118 building, is set to open in early 2026.
“PNB is deeply honored to be the custodians of Puan Azah Aziz’s extraordinary collection, which will soon showcase the artistry of our textiles to the world.
"Her personal collection of over 200 exquisite pieces, from sarung songket to baju kurung limar and tekat emas, represents the very best of Malay world craftsmanship, embodying not just textile but the soul of our cultural identity,” he concluded.
