Perched on the 51st floor, the dining room carries a renewed confidence, where the sprawling skyline serves as a backdrop to an experience suspended high above the city bustle.
Sabayon at EQ Kuala Lumpur has always made a strong first impression, but chef de cuisine Steve Ariffin’s latest dinner menu makes a compelling case for something far more lasting – food that is precise, grounded and refreshingly distinct.
For Steve, this menu marks a significant milestone, says hotel general manager Justin Lee.
“This is the first time the chef has been given complete creative freedom without the intervention of an executive chef,” said Lee at the start of dinner.
Every dish is Steve’s personal creation, reflecting a culinary perspective shaped by an unconventional upbringing.
Born to diplomat parents, Steve’s childhood across India, Germany and Russia gave him early exposure to diverse cuisines and flavour profiles before moving to Malaysia at age 20.
His global experiences, combined with a foundation in classical European cooking, are evident from the first bite.
The meal opens with an amuse-bouche of a delicate carrot mousse topped with whipped cream, fresh briny uni and savoury beef consomme jelly.
It is an intriguing contrast of textures and temperatures that sets a sophisticated tone.
The scallop tartare starter definitely stands out.
Marinated with star anise, shoyu and a touch of truffle, it is served with crisp seaweed toast and ponzu.
A more unexpected combination is the grilled unagi with foie gras and sansho pepper.
Bringing together two ingredients as rich as unagi and foie gras is a challenge, but aromatic sansho pepper adds a citrusy lift that cuts through the richness.
The kitchen continues to impress with the main courses.
The seared turbot is a standout.
The delicately cooked white fish is paired with parsley emulsion, caviar and smooth beurre blanc.
If you lean toward richer, comforting flavours, the braised beef cheek is a good choice.
Slow-cooked until fork-tender, the beef cheek is served with smooth carrot puree, shallots and a rich beef jus.
Other highlights on the a la carte menu include Wagyu sirloin served with celeriac puree and bone marrow, as well as slow-cooked duck breast paired with an orange reduction.
Steve gives desserts the same care as the savoury courses, often turning to citrus to bring freshness and balance.
In the white chocolate ganache, yuzu lends a bright, tangy note that tempers the sweetness, while saffron-infused apricot rounds out the dish.
But it is the pineapple brulee that delivers the most memorable finish.
Inspired by a trip to Phuket, Steve set out to combine a classic creme brulee with the tropical flavours of pineapple and coconut, infusing the custard with fresh rosemary and lime.
Guests can completely break traditional dining rules here.
Instead of the standard starter-main-dessert progression, you can curate your own experience with a three-course menu at RM358+, five-course experience at RM558+ and seven-course gastronomic journey at RM758+.
Want an all-starter marathon or a multi-course dessert feast? Sabayon lets you do this too.
For diners who want a fully guided showcase, the six-course La Degustation tasting menu (RM788+ per person) offers a curated tribute to the alpine regions of France, Switzerland and Italy.
SABAYON, EQ Kuala Lumpur, Equatorial Plaza, Jalan Sultan Ismail, Kuala Lumpur
(Tel: 03-2789 7839, WhatsApp 012-583 5319). Business hours: 6.30pm to 11pm (Monday to Saturday).
This is the writer’s personal observation and is not an endorsement by StarMetro.
