THE fire danced in the charcoal oven, caramelising cuts from the land and sea as waves of heat rippled through the open kitchen.
Unfazed, Michelin-starred Chef Louis Han faced the flames head-on and flipped the meat, checking its doneness.
The Seoul-born chef returns to Atas in Kuala Lumpur for a four-month residency, bringing the flavours of his modern Korean steakhouse, Gu:um, in Singapore.
In his second appearance at Atas, which is housed within the exquisite One Michelin Key RuMa Hotel and Residences, the chef showcases an extended menu thoughtfully crafted for Malaysian diners.
The chef first opened Nae:um in Singapore in 2021, earning one Michelin star in its inaugural year. The following year, he became the first Korean chef to receive the Michelin Guide Young Chef Award.
Gu:um, named after the Korean word for “to grill, roast or cook over fire”, was launched in 2024. Here, the chef reimagines Korean barbecue through refined culinary techniques while preserving the warmth and comfort at the heart of the cuisine.
Its residency menu at Atas opens with imaginative reinterpretations of traditional Korean staples.
Mulhwae, a traditional Korean cold spicy raw fish soup, is transformed as a delicate bowl of crisp greens and fresh sashimi tossed in a doenjang (fermented soybean) dressing.
Yukhwae Jeon marries Korean beef tartare with potato pancakes, while Cold Japchae offers refreshing glass noodles tossed in spicy, sweet and tangy dressing.
At Gu:um, dakgalbi (spicy stir-fried chicken) is enjoyed atop sourdough.
A playful take on Korean fried chicken, Gu:um’s version of KFC is cauliflower coated in housemade yangnyeom sauce, garnished with cashew snow shavings and spring onions. Han’s signature charcoal-grilled centrepiece, the Surf and Turf Platter, showcases wagyu striploin, lamb, chicken, tiger prawns and grouper.
“While Western steakhouses focus on aging, we focus more on marinating. We have a traditional garlic, soy sauce-based marinade; gochujang that is sweet and lightly spicy; and a fermented fish and vegetable blend inspired by Jeju Island,” he said.
The grilled meats are best enjoyed wrapped in fresh greens, alongside a trio of accompaniments – housemade kimchi, pickled shiitake and ssamjang sauce.
There are also Namul Sotbap – Calrose rice cooked in a Korean stone pot and topped with ribbons of omelette – and Braised Kimchi Jjigae with sardines, a comforting stew.
Wrapping up the meal, Hotteok (a Korean sweet pancake) is paired with housemade burnt honey ice cream, a satisfying contrast of warm and cold. Studs of dried apricots, cranberries, candied pecans and walnuts lend further sweetness and crunch.
Gu:um’s feature at Atas is part of the RuMa’s signature Atas Key Tables series, which brings internationally recognised chefs together for curated culinary partnerships that foster lasting exchanges between cultures and cuisines.
Summarising Gu:um’s residency, Han said: “I hope guests will simply enjoy the flavours and have a great time gathering with friends and family.”
Gu:um will be featured at Atas until Nov 30, and its menu is available daily from 6pm. For reservations and inquiries, WhatsApp 012-923 2278 or call 03-2778 0751.
