The Spanish Mibrasa oven at the Maillard Grill is fuelled entirely by charcoal and is designed to cook steaks to perfection. — Photos: Maillard Grill
Sequestered in a quiet corner of Republik in Damansara Heights, Kuala Lumpur is Maillard Grill. Pronounced “mai-ard”, the word itself is a scientific term used to refer to the browning of meat.
The one-year-old restaurant is a warm, comforting spot that combines comfort and indulgence with a touch of sophistication. The eatery is the brainchild of the Wyld Group, which is also behind other F&B concepts like popular local bar PS150.
One of the highlights of the eatery is the open kitchen where guests can see the chefs in action. Helming the kitchen is seasoned chef Meg Lee who has nearly two decades of experience under her belt.
At Maillard Grill, steaks are its heart and soul. A blackboard is wheeled out with an assortment of options for diners to choose from, ranging from wagyu tomahawk to Mizayaki ribeye cap, black Angus tomahawk and USDA prime coulotte (also known as picanha). Interestingly, most of the steaks are aged in-house.
“Basically Maillard Grill is a classic steakhouse, but we also try to use some good local produce. At the same time, for the meat – we offer primary cuts like tenderloin and rib eye as well as secondary cuts like picanha so customers can understand the flavours and textures of different cuts, not just the common ones,” explains Lee.
The eatery’s aesthetics are evident from the get-go but also don’t overwhelm or intimidate.
The epicentre of the kitchen is the Spanish Mibrasa oven (it is actually a two-in-one grill and oven), which weighs half a tonne, is fuelled solely by charcoal and is able to retain heat as high as 450°C. At Maillard Grill, the steaks (and other meat and seafood) are cooked over rambutan wood, giving it elevated flavours and that oh-so elusive char on the skin.
“In Malaysia, we don’t have that many fruit-based woods available in the market. So rambutan wood is a natural choice because it’s more neutral and it’s not so harsh so actually you can use it for cooking any kind of meat. Some imported words may be too strong and can overpower the meat, whereas this gives it a light sweet finish,” says Lee.
To begin your meal here, start with something classic like the Caesar Salad (RM39). In all honesty, it is incredibly hard to find a good rendition of Caesar salad in the Klang Valley, which is why the Maillard Grill’s delicious variant is both a stand-out and a welcome surprise.
Here, the Caesar salad is packed with romaine leaves, an anchovy vinaigrette, duck lardon (made by smoking and curing duck breast in-house), pecorino romano cheese and charcoal-infused olive oil. The resulting salad is stupendously good – the anchovy vinaigrette has laced every fibre and molecule of this configuration, imbuing it with understated briny notes while the duck lardon gives it a wondrous meaty boost that co-mingles amiably with the romaine and cheese in this mixture. It’s an excellent start to the meal that is also quite unforgettable.
The shaved pate is delicate and whimsical with rich meaty overtures that are offset by the sweet jam and bread in this intoxicating configuration. — ABIRAMI DURAI/The Star
The Pate (RM23) follows in the star-studded footsteps of the salad in its endeavour to bring it’s A-game to the table. Here, you will discover delicately shaved foie canard alongside focaccia bread and roselle-berry jam.
Somehow the mere act of the shaving the foie canard gives it a finesse that is unlike the clumpiness often associated with rich chunks or slices of pate. Here, the pate is petal-light and this rich meaty offering is offset by the bread and the sweet jam in what proves to be a seductively bewitching amalgamation of flavours and textures.
From the mains, you could opt to go the avian route and try the charcoal-grilled Spring Chicken (RM49). Here you will discover half an air-cured bird enhanced with rosemary, heirloom tomatoes and pan jus to round it out. Lee cures the chicken for two to three days before cooking it over a charcoal grill.
The Ipoh spring chicken is simple but endearingly good. — MAILLARD GRILL
The chicken is incredibly good – very, very juicy and succulent while still retaining some firmness in the flesh and a light char on the skin. It’s the sort of chicken that is underpinned by simplicity and yet manages to engage and allure.
One of the star offerings at the eatery that has continued to remain a crowd favourite is the Beef Wellington (RM260). Here, you will discover 180g of wagyu tenderloin with a herb crepe, duxelles, arugula and truffle au jus.
Beef Wellington has gained popularity since the inception of Gordon Ramsay’s famed Gordon Ramsay Bar and Grill in KL. Before that, few – if any – restaurants offered this traditional British dish, except during festive seasons.
At Maillard Grill, this dish has obviously been treated with a lot of tender, loving care. The pastry is neither too thick nor too flimsy and the mushroom duxelles and herb crepe form a light, rustic caress that encase the inner crevices of the pastry. But the true superhero in this ensemble cast is the beef, which is voluptuously thick, pink to its core and tender to the touch. The truffle au jus adds a touch of opulence to the dish, but even on its own, the beef Wellington shines.
The beef Wellington features pastry that is flaky but not too flimsy and beef that is succulent and rich. — Maillard Grill
Now on to the much-awaited main act: the steak. The blackboard is filled with all sorts of enticing options so you’re pretty much spoilt for choice but you would do well to try the Coral Grass Aged Ribeye (RM85 for 100g).
The special element about this ribeye is that it is aged in-house using coral grass sourced from Sabah. Coral grass is a kind of seaweed from east Malaysia and Lee says it has a natural brininess that is imparted to the meat. This gives the steak a uniquely local touch that you won’t be able to find anywhere else.
“We age it with the coral grass for 21 days. Why 21 days? Well, you can actually age meat for however many days you like. You can do it for one month or 40 days. But for me, I would say that three weeks still keeps the beef moist so it doesn’t dry out,” says Lee.
As a consequence, the ribeye is oh-so good. The meat retains a good level of char on the surface that segues into tenderly yielding pink flesh within. It’s the sort of meat that has a buoyancy and pliancy that renders chewing a fun experience. The coral grass has given it a smoky sea-faring attribute that takes it a whole new level. This is definitely a steak to remember.
The steak has been aged for 21 days using Sabah-sourced coral grass and features a gorgeous crusty surface and juicy, tender meat within.
Pair your steak with sides in the form of the Triple-Cooked Fries with Pecorino Romano (RM22), a tribute to Heston Blumenthal’s now-famed fries. The dish apparently took many, many attempts to perfect but is a sure-fire winner that retains a crispy outer shell that segues into buttery soft silken smooth insides.
Another side worth your attention is the Asparagus with Herb Raita, Pink Peppercorn (RM30) which pairs firm asparagus against a creamy raita and just a hint of fire from the peppercorns in what ends up being an addictively good accoutrement to the main meal.
Moving forward, Lee says she hopes to make the eatery a must-go spot for those with carnivorous inclinations.
“I’m not sure how many people have heard of us. So for me, I hope more customers know about us and then after they give us a try, I hope Maillard Grill will become their go-to place for a solid, genuine charcoal grilled steak. I would say that’s the goal,” says Lee.
Maillard Grill
Ground Floor, Republik
Jalan Medan Setia 1
Bukit Damansara50490 Kuala Lumpur
Tel: 03-7622 8770Open: Tuesday to Thursday from to 11.30pm; Friday to Sunday from 4pm to 11.30pm
