Zen by Mel's Niisho menu shows that the promising new eatery is staying true to its creative Japanese fusion roots. — Photos: ZEN BY MEL
When Zen by Mel first opened in 2022, it marked a welcome entry to the Klang Valley dining scene, with its particularly unique brand of Japanese fusion interspersed with a strong locavore movement. Naturally, the eatery found a captive audience among discerning Malaysian diners angling after a meal with a difference.
The eatery’s first degustation menu – Daisho – was a runaway success, with culinary triumphs and peaks marking each course. The play on flavours, techniques and ingredients highlighted maverick young head chef Jordan Yap’s ability to take calculated risks and experienced sous chef Mohd Shafik Mohd Taufik’s more assured, seasoned hand guiding the meals.
Yap's sophomore menu at Zen by Mel showcases his penchant for crafting beautiful meals with a focus on flavour.
The next menu iteration – Niisho – which was introduced a few months ago – builds on this initial winning streak, and shows Yap’s prodigious growth. This particular menu expands on the initial idea behind the restaurant, and once again, Yap doesn’t shy away from gambling with different techniques, ingredients and mix-and-match assortments that truly highlight this innovative chef’s daring streak.
Some of the winning entries from the 11-course menu, priced at RM420++ per person, include the Nettaebi, which features Japanese tiger prawn encased in seaweed and topped with kadaifi pastry strands, roasted Mizayaki mango and togarashi. This is a dish that is a true delight, from the sweet succulence of the prawns to the crunch of the kadaifi pastry and the burst of juicy fruitiness from the mango. It’s a dish that shows off Yap’s adept handling of flavours and textures and the overall equilibrium he is able to pull off in the end.
The palate cleanser of Clam Latte is an example of something small that makes a big impact. Featuring clams, baby scallops and the pungent strength of Bentong ginger, this is a quietly understated yet power-packed meal that provides a delicious interlude to the bigger meals on hand.
From the mains, the KaiyonoMori features red snapper with bearnaise sauce, bunga kantan and confit Japanese sweet potatoes finished with brown butter and brown sugar. This is an aquatic treasure that features fish that has a lovely buttery quality and flaky texture. The bunga kantan adds a lightly herbaceous quality that gives the dish a pleasant tropical edge.
The snapper is done extremely well and features an East-West interplay of flavours.
Next up, the Shinkarubi will appeal to diners with carnivorous inclinations and features Angus beef that has been slow-braised for nine hours until it is malleable to the touch. Adorning the meal is ulam raja and four-angled beans for a touch of homegrown flavours, alongside Japanese plums and a green apple gel. The beef is the star of this show and is so incredibly melt-in-the-mouth tender, you’ll be dreaming about it long after the meal has been cleared.
Desserts are crafted with equal care at Zen, and fashioned by incredibly talented pastry chef Jessica Veritus. Her Hana Fubuki for example features pink sakura floss crafted to look like a tree held up by a biscuit-based tree trunk. It’s a sweet treat that encapsulates a dose of whimsy and child-like play in a mouthful and tastes as good as it looks.
The hana fubuki highlights pastry chef Veritus' amazing showmanship.
All in all, a meal at Zen by Mel continues to deliver on the early promise and tone that the restaurant set. Expect more good things to come from this ambitious eatery which delivers heart and soul with creative flourishes at every turn.
Zen by Mel
F-10-01, Pusat Perdagangan Bandar Persiaran Jalil 1
Bukit Jalil
57000 Kuala Lumpur
Open: Wednesday to Monday at 6pm (first seating), and 8.30pm (second seating)
Reservations: letsumai.com/widget/zen-by-mel
