Chinese New Year meals balance symbolism with indulgence.
CHINESE New Year meals balance symbolism with indulgence, and one Oriental dining establishment in the capital delivers both with flair.
Ushering in the festivity, InterContinental Kuala Lumpur’s Tao Chinese Cuisine restaurant sets the scene for a memorable experience.
Having served in Dubai, the United Arab Emirates, senior executive Chinese chef Wong Lian You is eager to return to his roots.
“Back in Dubai, my customers were mainly Europeans and they preferred dishes with stronger flavours.
“However, here, I have had to experiment with new cooking styles and recipes to see what appeals to Malaysians,” he said.
His curation opens on a refined note with a thoughtfully composed yee sang.
Pan‑fried Australian scallops bring gentle sweetness and bite, while ice plant cuts through with a crisp, refreshing crunch.
Fresh lily bulb introduces soft floral notes, tying the textures together with understated elegance.
The appetiser gently shifts the focus towards comfort and nourishment.
Abalone lobster’s natural sweetness reminds diners of ocean’s bounty.
Arriving clear yet deeply aromatic, the Double‑Boiled Supreme Soup reveals its richness gradually.
Dried scallop and abalone lend savoury depth, while sea cucumber and fish maw contribute a silky, luxurious mouthfeel.
Earthy morel mushroom and cordyceps flower complete the broth, making each spoonful quietly indulgent.
From there, the menu steps confidently into bolder territory.
The Tao Signature Roasted Charcoal Goose commands attention with lacquered skin roasted to a deep bronze and kissed with smokiness.
Beneath the crisp exterior, the meat stays succulent, rich without tipping into excess.
Seasoning is kept restrained, allowing the goose’s natural flavour to take centre stage.
A lighter course follows to restore balance.
The freshness of the fish shines through in the Steamed Wild Marble Goby.
Black olive, fermented black bean and tangerine peel bring a measured interplay of saltiness and citrusy bitterness that lifts the delicate flesh.
Festive gravitas returns with the braised six‑head abalone lobster.
Steamed koi fish-shaped ‘ninko’ is pleasantly chewy and lightly sweet.
Slow‑braised to tenderness, the abalone absorbs the glossy sauce effortlessly while the lobster adds a natural sweetness.
Ee-fu noodles or yee mee mop up the savoury gravy, binding the dish into a deeply satisfying finale to the mains.
As the meal tapers off, dessert arrives on a cooling, restrained note.
Chilled almond ice with bird’s nest delivers gentle sweetness, its nutty aroma clean and soothing.
The bird’s nest adds a delicate, gelatinous texture, offering refinement after the richness that comes before.
Closing the feast is the steamed koi fish‑shaped ninko.
Soft and pleasantly chewy, its subtle sweetness is accented by shredded coconut.
Beyond its playful form, the dessert nods to symbolism, representing abundance and perseverance.
Steaming wild marble goby allows the freshness of the fish to shine.
Throughout the meal, free‑flow jasmine tea refreshes the palate between courses, keeping the experience light and balanced.
Several set menus are available until March 3.
For a table of 10, you can choose from Blazing Ember (RM4,688nett), Inferno (RM3,388nett), Radiant Flame (RM3,088nett) and Verdant Flame Vegetarian (RM2,188nett).
Other sets are Golden Spark (RM1,888nett, serves six), Ember Harmony (RM1,288nett, serves four) and Flare of Joy (RM688nett, serves two).
TAO CHINESE CUISINE, InterContinental Kuala Lumpur, Jalan Ampang, Kuala Lumpur. Tel: 03-2161 1111. Business hours: 11.45am-2.30pm (Mondays to Fridays), 11.00am-2.30pm (Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays), 6.30pm-10.30pm.
This is the writer’s personal observation and is not an endorsement by StarMetro.
