Java’s Ocean Queen

Java is an island heaving with humanity, but there is reprieve and wilderness to be found in its rugged southern coast. But beware – a wrathful goddess holds sway here.

Java’s wild and rugged southern coast is a spectacular area of big surf, steep mountains and nature reserves waiting to be explored.

During the weekends, and particularly on public holidays, Javans and foreigners alike come to visit Pelabuhan Ratu (Queen’s harbour), famed for its wide beaches, seafood and affordable accommodation.

However, those who come this way always take care not to antagonise the mythical Goddess of the South Seas, known as Nyai Loro Kidul, who has an aversion – so it is said – to the colour green and is ever ready to lure the unwary out to sea.

The small fishing town of Pelabuhan Ratu is almost directly opposite Jakarta on the southern coast of Java and is about four hour’s journey by car from the capital (traffic permitting). The journey there is scenic, but it can be quite hair-raising as the roads traverse the West Java Highlands which can involve steep climbs and descents.

Many people journey to the south coast to surf, with the large waves proving an attraction to locals and foreigners alike. With thousands of kilometres of ocean and no land mass between Java and Antarctica, the ocean here can be very unforgiving.

This is great for those into adrenaline sports, but it makes the seas unsafe for general swimming. Even while paddling and jumping in the waves, you are aware of the powerful undertow and have to be cautious.

However, there are many surf schools offering courses for beginners with qualified instructors who are familiar with the ocean’s temperament.

Fortunately, there are lots of other things to do besides swimming. The beach itself is a vast wide sandy expanse and is a popular place for football matches, volleyball and other games. Many of the resorts in and around the town also have private areas for sun-bathing and games.

On an overcrowded island like Java, it is always a blessing to find green areas, and in and around Pelabuhan Ratu, there are a number of wildlife refuges and national parks.

Gunung Heliman is popular with bird-watchers as it contains the rare Javan Hawk-eagle and the brilliant red-and-black Sunda Minivet. The park encompasses waterfalls, jungle and canyons. And if you gaze up into the canopy, you may just be lucky enough to catch a glimpse of a Javan gibbon.

Other wildlife spots include a nearby bat cave, which although sounding like a hideout for Batman and Robin, is in fact the home of hundreds of thousands of bats that emerge in a giant black flock at dusk. If you are a fan of vampire movies or like spectacles of nature, you’ll be happy to find that many tour operators offer trips to the cave to watch the nightly procession.

However, many people do not come here for the white-water rafting, surfing, wildlife or national parks; instead they come for much simpler pursuits such as eating fresh seafood bought from the daily fish market, having lunch in a surrounding tea plantation or just lounging by the swimming pool in a resort such as Ocean Queen.

Legend of the Ocean Queen

A unique aspect of any trip to Pelabuhan Ratu is the legend of the Queen of the Southern Seas, or Nyai Loro Kidul. Belief in her runs deep here and the local people regularly pay homage by offering gifts to the Ocean. In the case of the Samudra Hotel, the management has even dedicated a room in her honour.

The Samudra is a huge concrete block of a hotel which makes no attempt to blend into its surroundings, but is the largest hotel in the area and popular on weekends. Its main claim to fame, though, is that it reserves room number 308 for the Ocean Queen.

You are allowed to visit this room but it is reserved for her exclusive use so it cannot be used for overnight stays. Offerings of lotus flowers are left in the room, along with perfumes and shampoos arranged on her dressing table. The sheets on the bed are upturned, as if expecting her back at any minute, and a large (and to me scary) portrait of her with wild flowing hair in front of a raging green sea adorns the wall.

Despite not being a person who readily believes in myths and legends, I left the room feeling it wise to hold a healthy respect for Nyai Loro Kidul. Drownings of fishermen and swimmers are regularly attributed to her, especially if they are wearing green, a colour which she has a particular dislike for.

Although a more likely story is that they didn’t heed warnings not to swim in the rougher parts of the sea, I hastily removed my green socks before I headed back down to the beach to order a plate of spicy seafood.

ACCOMMODATION

There are lots of small guesthouses and family run hotels in and around Pelabuhan Ratu, but the most popular venues in terms of size and facilities are:

Ocean Queen Resort: This is the most popular place for expats and foreign tourists and consists of bungalows facing either a central pool or the private beach. There is a clubhouse and restaurant, motorbikes for hire and each house comes complete with its own houseboy who will go to the market every day and barbecue fresh seafood for you at night (www.oceanqueenresort.com).

Samudra Hotel: Its main claim to fame is the room reserved for the Ocean Quee n. Otherwise, it lacks character, although it does have amenities such as a pool and Chinese restaurant (http://www.innagaruda.com/group.php).