Chinese cabbages now in demand

BIG trucks loaded with Chinese cabbages are making their way into the Chinese capital at the end of autumn to meet the demand for Beijingers getting ready for winter.

It is quite common, especially towards year end, to see shoppers leaving the markets with bags or even carts full of the vegetable.

For old Beijingers, this is an annual tradition for as long as anyone can remember.

This tradition is so important that the wet markets and grocery stores set up a section to place “winter veggies” every November.

“We could not plant anything during winter.

“With poor logistics and road system those days, there was no fresh vegetables in the markets.

“So, the only way is to hoard up those which can last for a long period, ” explained an aunty, who was queuing up for “winter vegetables” at a wet market in Beijing.

Da baicai (Chinese cabbage), which used to be the only green-leaf vegetable on her family’s dining table during winters, was a must-have on her shopping list.

The middle-aged woman, who only wished to be known as Aunty Lee, said da baicai was the best choice because it could last throughout the winter season as long as it was kept in a dry and well-aired place.

“It is easy to keep, can be preserved as pickles or as dried vegetable, and the best part is it tastes delicious no matter how you cook it, ” she pointed out.

She added that Chinese cabbage could also be used as dumpling fillings, made into various soup dishes or salad, steamed or fried with meats as well as dried seafood.

Apart from da baicai, Beijingers will also store carrots, radish, potatoes, eggplants, leeks or others which do not rot easily as winter vegetables

Another shopper recalled the days when he accompanied his father to the markets on a tricycle.

“My father had to make a few trips to bring back the Chinese cabbages we bought, ” he said.

At home, they put the Chinese cabbages under the sun until the outer layer dried up so that it could form a shield protecting the freshness inside.

Then, the Chinese cabbages would be kept in the self-dug underground cellar at the courtyard.

A small quantity would be preserved as pickles or be made into dried vegetable.

Although lives have improved today and people from the northern parts need not worry about lack of vegetables during winter, many of them continued with the practice just to keep the tradition alive.

One of them is 54-year-old company driver, known only as Du.

He bought a few Chinese cabbages for winter this year.

“It is more a habit now than worrying about not having green vegetable for winter.

“I feel good seeing my house filled with da baicai, they brought fond memories of those old days.

“When I was a child, my parents would store up 500kg of the vegetable, ” he smiled, adding that his parents kept the Chinese cabbages in well aired areas around the house and covered them with blankets.

The amount was not much for a family with seven children, he said.

“We have to eat it for at least three months after all.

“My mother fried it with pork lard or made baicai buns for us, ” he said, adding they also ate corn and sweet potatoes occasionally.

Even so, he has never had enough of Chinese cabbage.

“I love it and can eat it everyday because the vegetable can be cooked in many ways.

“My favourite is culiu baicai (sauteed Chinese cabbage with vinegar sauce), ” he added.

Unfortunately, his son does not share the same sentiment.

“He does not like it, so I just bought a few now, ” he added.

According to Beijing Daily, one kg of Chinese cabbage cost around 50 sen this year.

CSF Market told the daily that it had ordered over 600 tonnes of Chinese cabbage and 200 tonnes of Shandong leeks to meet the demands of customers at its 50 branches around the city.

A worker at another superstore chain said the branch sold about 3,000kg of Chinese cabbage daily.

“Most of the customers were elderly people and each bought about 40kg, ” he added.

He pointed out that the spectacular scene of hundreds of people lining up for winter vegetables is long gone.

“The younger generation does not practice this anymore as they feel that buying the fresh ones are more healthy.

“Now, I can only see a line of slightly more than a dozen customers and most of them are elderly people who wished to keep the tradition alive, ” he said.