KUCHING: For over three decades, Halidi Ismail has been preserving the authentic taste of umai, a traditional delicacy of Sarawak’s Melanau community.
Using skills and recipes passed down through generations, he is one of 20 traders making and selling the raw fish dish at the market in Mukah, a coastal town in the Melanau heartland in central Sarawak.
Umai is a dish of fresh fish slices marinated in lime juice and seasoned with other ingredients like onion and chilli.
To make his umai, Halidi uses fresh empirang or hairfin anchovy, a commonly available local fish he obtains from fishermen at the market.
“I prepare the fish by removing the scales and bones before slicing it into thin strips to achieve a delicate texture,” he said.
He then tosses the sliced fish with finely chopped onion, chilli and a generous squeeze of lime juice.
The acidity of the lime juice naturally cures the fish, producing a refreshing dish with a rich combination of sweet, sour, spicy and salty flavours.
“It’s important to use only the freshest fish and maintain strict hygiene standards throughout the preparation process to produce high-quality umai,” Halidi said.
At the bustling Mukah market, the dish is popular among locals and visitors alike.
Halidi sells his umai in takeaway containers at RM15 each, earning RM500 to RM800 daily.
For him, every box of umai is not only a source of livelihood but an enduring symbol of Melanau cultural identity and heritage.
In recent years, umai’s popularity has grown beyond the Melanau community, with the dish appearing in restaurant menus across Sarawak.
Yet, at his market stall in Mukah, Halidi remains committed to preserving its traditional preparation and flavours for generations to come.
