A singular ritual to honour the war dead

Mariia Vilhovetska visiting the grave of her husband who was killed while fighting near the eastern Ukrainian city of Bakhmut. — Photos: ©2023 The New York Times Company

EVERY morning at the stroke of nine, in the western Ukrainian city of Chernivtsi, the entire town square comes to a standstill for a moment of silence to mourn the war dead.

Police officers block the streets. People hold their hands over their hearts. Languid, operatic music flows from a speaker positioned on a wrought iron balcony overlooking the cobblestone square.